I-Ascorbyl Glucoside VS. I-Ascorbyl Palmitate: Ukuhlaziywa Okuqhathanisayo

II. I-Ascorbyl Glucoside

I-Ascorbyl glucoside iwuhlobo oluzinzile lukavithamini C oluncibilika emanzini futhi lumuncwa kalula esikhumbeni. Kuyinhlanganisela ye-ascorbic acid kanye ne-glucose, esiza ekuthuthukiseni ukuzinza kanye ne-bioavailability ye-vitamin C. I-Ascorbyl glucoside yaziwa ngokukwazi kwayo ukukhanyisa isikhumba, ngisho nokukhipha ithoni yesikhumba, nokunciphisa ukubukeka kwamabala amnyama kanye ne-hyperpigmentation. Iphinde ibe nezindawo zokulwa nokuvuvukala, okuyenza ifaneleke ezinhlotsheni zesikhumba ezibucayi.

A. Isakhiwo Samakhemikhali Nezakhiwo

I-Ascorbyl glucoside iphuma kuvithamini C owakhiwa ngokuhlanganisa i-ascorbic acid neglucose. Lesi sakhiwo samakhemikhali sithuthukisa ukuzinza nokuncibilika kwevithamini C, okwenza ifaneleke kakhulu ekwakhiweni kwe-skincare. I-Ascorbyl glucoside incibilika emanzini, evumela ukuthi imunce kalula isikhumba, okuholela ekulethweni okuphumelelayo kwe-vitamin C kumaseli okuhlosiwe.

B. Ukuzinza kanye nokuba khona kwe-Bioavailability

Enye yezinzuzo ezibalulekile ze-ascorbyl glucoside ukuzinza kwayo. Ngokungafani ne-ascorbic acid emsulwa, ethambekele ekubeni ne-oxidation kanye nokuwohloka lapho kuvezwe emoyeni nasekukhanyeni, i-ascorbyl glucoside ikhombisa ukuzinza okukhulu, ikwenze kube ukukhetha okuthandwayo kwemikhiqizo ye-skincare. Ukwengeza, i-bioavailability yayo ethuthukisiwe iqinisekisa ukuthi ingangena esikhunjeni ngokuphumelelayo, ilethe izinzuzo ze-vitamin C ezingqimbeni ezijulile zesikhumba.

C. Izinzuzo Zesikhumba

I-Ascorbyl glucoside inikeza uhla lwezinzuzo esikhumbeni. Umsebenzi wawo oyinhloko ukwenza njenge-antioxidant, ukuvikela isikhumba emonakalweni wama-radical wamahhala obangelwa izingcindezi zemvelo ezifana nemisebe ye-UV kanye nokungcola. Ngaphezu kwalokho, idlala indima ebalulekile ekuvimbeleni ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin, ngaleyo ndlela isiza ukukhanyisa isikhumba, ukunciphisa i-hyperpigmentation, ngisho nokukhipha ithoni yesikhumba. Ukwengeza, i-ascorbyl glucoside itholwe inezindawo zokulwa nokuvuvukala, okuyenza ifanelekele ukuthulisa nokupholisa isikhumba esibucayi noma esicasukile.

D. Ukufaneleka Kwezinhlobo Ezihlukene Zesikhumba

I-Ascorbyl glucoside ibekezelelwa kahle izinhlobo ezahlukene zesikhumba, okuhlanganisa nesikhumba esibucayi. Imvelo yayo yokuncibilika emanzini kanye nokwakheka kwayo okumnene kuyenza ibe mancane amathuba okuba ibangele ukucasuka noma ukuzwela, okuyenza ibe inketho eguquguqukayo kubantu abanokukhathazeka okuhlukile kwesikhumba.

E. Izifundo Nocwaningo Olusekela Ukusebenza Kwalo

Ucwaningo oluningi lukhombisile ukusebenza kwe-ascorbyl glucoside ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba. Ucwaningo luye lwabonisa ukuthi kunciphisa ngokuphumelelayo ukuhlanganiswa kwe-melanin, okuholela ekukhanyeni kwebala elikhanyayo nangokwengeziwe. Ukwengeza, ucwaningo luye lwagqamisa amandla ayo okunciphisa ama-radicals mahhala nokuvikela isikhumba ekucindezelekeni kwe-oxidative. Izivivinyo zemitholampilo ziphinde zaveza ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwe-ascorbyl glucoside kungaba nomthelela ekuthuthukisweni kokuthungwa kwesikhumba, ukuqina, kanye nokukhanya okuphelele.

 

III. I-Ascorbyl Palmitate

A. Isakhiwo Samakhemikhali Nezakhiwo

I-Ascorbyl palmitate iphuma kuvithamini C encibilika ngamafutha eyakhiwa ngokuhlanganisa i-ascorbic acid ne-palmitic acid. Lesi sakhiwo samakhemikhali sivumela ukuthi ibe yi-lipophilic eyengeziwe, iyenze ikwazi ukungena emgodleni we-lipid wesikhumba ngokuphumelelayo. Ngenxa yalokho, i-ascorbyl palmitate ivame ukusetshenziswa ekwakhiweni kokunakekelwa kwesikhumba okudinga ukungena okujulile kwesikhumba kanye nomsebenzi omude we-antioxidant.

B. Ukuzinza kanye nokuba khona kwe-Bioavailability

Nakuba i-ascorbyl palmitate inikeza inzuzo yokungena kwesikhumba okuthuthukisiwe, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi ayizinzile kakhulu kunezinye izinto eziphuma kuvithamini C, ikakhulukazi ekwakhiweni okunamazinga e-pH aphezulu. Lokhu kuzinza okuncishisiwe kungaholela ekuphileni kweshalofu okufushane kanye nokuwohloka okungenzeka ngokuhamba kwesikhathi. Kodwa-ke, lapho yenziwe ngendlela efanele, i-ascorbyl palmitate inganikeza izinzuzo ezihlala njalo ze-antioxidant ngenxa yekhono layo lokugcinwa ezingqimbeni ze-lipid zesikhumba.

C. Izinzuzo Zesikhumba

I-Ascorbyl palmitate isebenza njenge-antioxidant enamandla, ivikela isikhumba ekucindezelekeni kwe-oxidative kanye nokulimala kwemvelo. Ikhono layo lokungena emgodleni we-lipid wesikhumba livumela ukuthi lisebenzisane nemiphumela yalo yokulwa ne-antioxidant ezingqimbeni ezijulile zesikhumba, lapho linganciphisa ama-radicals mahhala futhi lisekele ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen. Lokhu kukwenza kuzuzise ngokukhethekile ukubhekana nezimpawu zokuguga, njengemigqa emihle, imibimbi, nokulahlekelwa ukunwebeka.

D. Ukufaneleka Kwezinhlobo Ezihlukene Zesikhumba

I-ascorbyl palmitate ivamise ukubekezelelwa kahle izinhlobo ezahlukene zesikhumba, kodwa ukuncibilika kwayo nge-lipid kungase kuyenze ifaneleke kakhulu kubantu abanesikhumba esomile noma esikhule kakhulu. Ikhono layo lokungena emgodleni we-lipid wesikhumba ngokuphumelelayo linganikeza ukugeleza kwamanzi okungeziwe kanye nokuvikelwa kwe-antioxidant kulabo abanezinkinga ezithile zesikhumba.

E. Izifundo Nocwaningo Olusekela Ukusebenza Kwalo

Ucwaningo nge-ascorbyl palmitate lubonise ukusebenza kahle kwalo ekuvikeleni isikhumba emonakalweni we-UV, ukunciphisa ukucindezeleka okwenziwe nge-oxidative, nokukhuthaza ukuhlanganiswa kwe-collagen. Ucwaningo luye lwabonisa amandla ayo okuthuthukisa ukuthungwa kwesikhumba kanye nokunciphisa ukubukeka kwemibimbi. Kodwa-ke, ucwaningo olwengeziwe luyadingeka ukuze uqonde ngokugcwele izinzuzo zayo zokuqhathanisa kanye nemikhawulo maqondana nezinye izinto eziphuma kuvithamini C.

IV. Ukuhlaziya Ngokuqhathanisa

A. Ukuzinza kanye Nempilo Yeshelufu

Uma uqhathanisa i-ascorbyl glucoside kanye ne-ascorbyl palmitate ngokuzinza nempilo yeshelufu, kuyabonakala ukuthi i-ascorbyl glucoside inikeza ukuzinza okuphakeme, ikakhulukazi ekwakhiweni okunamazinga aphezulu e-pH. Lokhu kuzinza okuthuthukisiwe kuyenza inketho ethembeke kakhudlwana yemikhiqizo ye-skincare edinga impilo yeshelufu ende. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, i-ascorbyl palmitate, nakuba iphumelela ekungeneni umgoqo we-lipid wesikhumba, ingase ibe neshalofu lesikhathi esifushane futhi isengozini yokuwohloka ekwakhiweni okuthile.

B. Ukungena Kwesikhumba kanye Ne-Bioavailability

I-Ascorbyl palmitate, ekubeni i-fat-soluble derivative, inenzuzo mayelana nokungena kwesikhumba kanye ne-bioavailability. Ikhono layo lokungena emgodleni we-lipid wesikhumba livumela ukuthi lifinyelele izingqimba ezijulile zesikhumba, lapho likwazi khona ukusebenzisa imiphumela yalo ye-antioxidant ne-anti-aging. Ngokuphambene, i-ascorbyl glucoside, encibilika emanzini, ingase ibe nemingcele mayelana nokungena esikhumbeni ngokujulile njenge-ascorbyl palmitate. Kodwa-ke, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi kokubili okuphuma kuyo kungaletha ngempumelelo uvithamini C esikhumbeni, nakuba ngezindlela ezahlukene.

C. Ukusebenza Ngempumelelo Ekubhekaneni Nokukhathazeka Kwesikhumba

Kokubili i-ascorbyl glucoside ne-ascorbyl palmitate zibonise ukusebenza kahle ekubhekaneni nokukhathazeka okuhlukahlukene kwesikhumba. I-Ascorbyl glucoside iphumelela kakhulu ekukhanyiseni isikhumba, inciphise ukugqama kwesikhumba, futhi inikeze isivikelo se-antioxidant. Ilungele futhi abantu abanesikhumba esibucayi ngenxa yobumnene bayo. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, ikhono le-ascorbyl palmitate lokungena emgodleni we-lipid esikhumbeni liyenza ikufanelekele ukubhekana nezimpawu zokuguga, njengemigqa emihle, imibimbi, nokulahlekelwa ukunwebeka. Iphinde inikeze umsebenzi omude we-antioxidant ezingqimbeni ze-lipid zesikhumba.

D. Ukufaneleka Kwezinhlobo Ezihlukene Zesikhumba

Mayelana nokufaneleka kwezinhlobo ezahlukene zesikhumba, i-ascorbyl glucoside ngokuvamile ibekezelelwa kahle izinhlobo eziningi zesikhumba, okuhlanganisa nesikhumba esibucayi. Imvelo yayo encibilikayo emanzini kanye nokwakheka kwayo okumnene kuyenza ibe inketho eguquguqukayo kubantu abanezinkinga ezihlukahlukene zesikhumba. I-Ascorbyl palmitate, nakuba ngokuvamile ibekezelelwa kahle, ingase ifaneleke kakhudlwana kubantu abanesikhumba esomile noma esivuthiwe ngenxa yemvelo yayo encibilikayo nge-lipid namandla okuhlinzeka nge-hydration eyengeziwe nokuvikelwa kwe-antioxidant.

E. Ukusebenzisana Okungaba Khona Nezinye Izithako Zokunakekelwa Kwesikhumba

Kokubili i-ascorbyl glucoside ne-ascorbyl palmitate zihambisana nezinhlobonhlobo zezithako zokunakekela isikhumba. Kodwa-ke, kubalulekile ukucabangela ukusebenzisana okungase kube khona nezinye izithako ezisebenzayo, ama-preservatives, kanye nezingxenye zokwakha. Isibonelo, i-ascorbyl glucoside ingase izinze kakhulu ekubunjweni okunama-antioxidants athile, kuyilapho i-ascorbyl palmitate ingase idinge ukucatshangelwa kokubunjwa okuqondile ukuvimbela i-oxidation kanye nokuwohloka.

V. Ukucatshangelwa Kokwakhiwa

A. Ukuhambisana Nezinye Izithako Zokunakekelwa Kwesikhumba

Lapho wenza imikhiqizo ye-skincare nge-ascorbyl glucoside noma i-ascorbyl palmitate, kubalulekile ukucabangela ukuhambisana kwayo nezinye izithako zokunakekela isikhumba. Kokubili okuphuma kokunye kungahlanganiswa ngempumelelo nohlu lwezithako ezihambisanayo, njengama-antioxidants, ama-moisturizer, nama-ejenti okuvikela ilanga, ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukusebenza kahle kwazo kanye nokuzinza kwazo.

B. Izidingo ze-pH kanye Nezinselele Zokwakha

I-Ascorbyl glucoside ne-ascorbyl palmitate zingase zibe nezidingo ezihlukile ze-pH nezinselele zokwakheka. I-Ascorbyl glucoside izinzile ekwakhekeni okunamazinga e-pH aphezulu, kuyilapho i-ascorbyl palmitate ingase idinge izimo ezithile ze-pH ukuze igcine ukuqina nokusebenza kwayo. Abaqulunqi badinga ukucabangela ngokucophelela lezi zidingo lapho bethuthukisa imikhiqizo ye-skincare ukuze baqinisekise ukusebenza kahle.

C. Amandla Okukhipha I-oxidation kanye Nokuwohloka

Kokubili okuphuma kokunye kusengozini yokungenwa yi-oxidation kanye nokonakaliswa lapho kuvezwe emoyeni, ekukhanyeni, nasezimweni ezithile zokubunjwa. Abakhiqizi kufanele bathathe izinyathelo zokuvikela lezi zinto eziphuma kuzo ekonakalisweni, njengokusebenzisa ukupakisha okufanele, ukunciphisa ukuchayeka emoyeni nasekukhanyeni, kanye nokuhlanganisa ama-ejenti azinzisayo ukuze agcine ukusebenza kwawo ngokuqhubekayo ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.

D. Ukucatshangelwa Okusebenzayo Konjiniyela Bomkhiqizo We-Skincare

Abathuthukisi bomkhiqizo we-Skincare kufanele bacabangele izici ezingokoqobo ezifana nezindleko, ukutholakala, nokucatshangelwa kokulawula lapho bekhetha phakathi kwe-ascorbyl glucoside ne-ascorbyl palmitate mayelana nokwakheka kwazo. Ukwengeza, kufanele bahlale benolwazi mayelana nentuthuko yakamuva kubuchwepheshe bokubunjwa kanye nokuhlangana kwesithako ukuze bathuthukise ukusebenza kokuphuma kokuphuma ku-vitamin C emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba.

VI. Isiphetho

A. Isifinyezo Somehluko Oyinhloko Nokufana

Kafushane, i-ascorbyl glucoside ne-ascorbyl palmitate zinikeza izinzuzo ezihlukile nokucatshangelwa kokwakhiwa kwe-skincare. I-Ascorbyl glucoside ihamba phambili ekuzinzeni, ukufaneleka kwesikhumba esizwelayo, kanye nokubhekana nokukhathazeka okuhlobene nokucwebezela kanye ne-hyperpigmentation. I-Ascorbyl palmitate, ngakolunye uhlangothi, inikeza ukungena okuthuthukisiwe kwesikhumba, umsebenzi omude we-antioxidant, kanye nempumelelo ekubhekaneni nezimpawu zokuguga.

B. Izincomo Zezidingo Ezihlukene Zokunakekelwa Kwesikhumba

Ngokusekelwe ekuhlaziyeni okuqhathanisayo, izincomo zezidingo ezahlukene zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba zingafanelana nokukhathazeka okuthile kwabantu. Kulabo abafuna ukuvikelwa okukhanyayo nokuvikelwa kwe-antioxidant, imikhiqizo equkethe i-ascorbyl glucoside ingakhethwa. Abantu abanokukhathazeka okuhlobene nokuguga nokusekelwa kwe-collagen bangase bazuze ekwakhiweni okuqukethe i-ascorbyl palmitate.

C. Ucwaningo Lwesikhathi esizayo Nentuthuko Kokuphuma Ku-Vitamin C

Njengoba umkhakha we-skincare uqhubeka nokuvela, ucwaningo oluqhubekayo kanye nentuthuko kokuphuma kuvithamini C kubalulekile ukuze kwembule imininingwane emisha ekusebenzeni kwayo, ukuqina, kanye nokusebenzisana okungase kube khona nezinye izithako zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. Intuthuko yesikhathi esizayo ingase iholele ekwakhiweni kokwakhiwa kwamanoveli asebenzisa izici ezihlukile zakho kokubili i-ascorbyl glucoside kanye ne-ascorbyl palmitate ukuze kubhekwane nohlu olubanzi lwezinkinga zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba.

Sengiphetha, ukuhlaziya okuqhathanisayo kwe-ascorbyl glucoside kanye ne-ascorbyl palmitate kunikeza ukuqonda okubalulekile ezimpahleni zazo, izinzuzo, kanye nokucatshangelwa kwazo. Ngokuqonda izinzuzo ezihlukile zokuphuma ngakunye, abathuthukisi bomkhiqizo we-skincare bangenza izinqumo ezinolwazi ukuze bakhe ukwakheka okusebenzayo nokuklanyelwe okuhlangabezana nezidingo ezahlukahlukene zabathengi.

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Thenga PS. I-Vitamin C ku-dermatology. I-Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593
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Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Imiphumela yokulwa nokuvuvukala kanye nokulungisa izithiyo zesikhumba zokusetshenziswa kwezihloko zamafutha ezitshalo. I-J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070