Njengoba isikhumba sikhula, kukhona ukwehla komsebenzi we-physiologic. Lezi zinguquko zidalwa yizo zombili izici zangaphakathi (chronologic) kanye nezangaphandle (ikakhulukazi ezibangelwa yi-UV). I-Botanicals inikeza izinzuzo ezingaba khona ukulwa nezinye zezimpawu zokuguga. Lapha, sibuyekeza ama-botanical akhethiwe kanye nobufakazi besayensi obusekela izimangalo zabo zokulwa nokuguga. I-Botanicals ingase inikeze i-anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, neminye imiphumela. Inqwaba yama-botanicals ibalwe njengezithako kuzimonyo nezimonyo ezidumile, kodwa ezimbalwa kuphela ezikhethiwe okuxoxwa ngazo lapha. Lezi zikhethwe ngokusekelwe ekutholakaleni kwedatha yesayensi, isithakazelo somuntu siqu sababhali, kanye “nokuduma” okucatshangwayo kwemikhiqizo yamanje yezimonyo neyezimonyo. I-botanicals ebuyekeziwe lapha ihlanganisa amafutha e-argan, amafutha kakhukhunathi, i-crocin, i-feverfew, itiye eliluhlaza, i-marigold, ihalananda, ne-soy.
Amagama angukhiye: i-botanical; anti-ukuguga; amafutha e-argan; amafutha kakhukhunathi; i-crocin; imfiva; itiye eluhlaza; i-marigold; ihalananda; isoya
3.1. Amafutha e-Argan
3.1.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, kanye Nezimangalo
Amafutha e-argan atholakala e-Morocco futhi akhiqizwa embewini ye-Argania sponosa L. Inokusetshenziswa okuningi kwendabuko njengokupheka, ukwelapha izifo zesikhumba, nokunakekela isikhumba nezinwele.
3.1.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokwenza
Amafutha e-Argan akhiwe ngamafutha angu-80% e-monounsaturated kanye nama-20% agcwele amafutha acids futhi aqukethe i-polyphenols, i-tocopherols, i-sterols, i-squalene, ne-triterpene alcohol.
3.1.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Uwoyela we-argan ubukade usetshenziswa e-Morocco ukuze kwehliswe umbala wobuso, kodwa isisekelo sesayensi salesi simangalo sasingaqondwa ngaphambilini. Ocwaningweni lwegundane, uwoyela we-argan uvimbele ukubonakaliswa kwe-tyrosinase kanye ne-dopachrome tautomerase kumaseli e-melanoma e-murine e-B16, okuholela ekwehleni okuncike kumthamo kokuqukethwe kwe-melanin. Lokhu kuphakamisa ukuthi amafutha e-argan angase abe inhibitor enamandla ye-melanin biosynthesis, kodwa ukuhlolwa kokulawula okungahleliwe (RTC) ezifundweni zabantu kuyadingeka ukuze kuqinisekiswe le nkolelo.
I-RTC encane yabesifazane abangu-60 abadlule kokuya esikhathini baphakamise ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwansuku zonke kanye/noma ukusetshenziswa kwamafutha e-argan kunciphisa ukulahlekelwa kwamanzi e-transepidermal (TEWL), ukunwebeka okuthuthukisiwe kwesikhumba, okusekelwe ekwenyukeni kwe-R2 (ukunwebeka okukhulu kwesikhumba), u-R5 (ukunwebeka kwenetha kwesikhumba), kanye nemingcele engu-R7 (ukunwebeka kwebhayoloji) kanye nokuncipha kwesikhathi sokusebenza kwe-resonance (RRT) (isilinganiso esihlobene ngokuphambene nokunwebeka kwesikhumba). Amaqembu ayenziwe ngokungahleliwe ukuze adle amafutha omnqumo noma amafutha e-argan. Womabili amaqembu agcoba amafutha e-argan esihlakaleni se-volar esingakwesokunxele kuphela. Izilinganiso zithathwe ezihlakaleni ze-volar kwesokudla nesobunxele. Ukuthuthukiswa kokunwebeka kubonakale kuwo womabili amaqembu esihlakaleni lapho amafutha e-argan asetshenziswa khona ngokwesihloko, kodwa esihlakaleni lapho uwoyela we-argan ungasetshenziswanga kuphela iqembu elidla uwoyela we-argan libe nokwanda okukhulu kokunwebeka [31]. Lokhu kubangelwa ukwanda kokuqukethwe kwe-antioxidant emafutheni e-argan uma kuqhathaniswa namafutha omnqumo. Kucatshangelwa ukuthi lokhu kungahle kube ngenxa ye-Vitamin E yayo ne-ferulic acid, okuyi-antioxidants eyaziwayo.
3.2. Amafutha Kakhukhunathi
3.2.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, kanye Nezimangalo
Amafutha kakhukhunathi atholakala esithelweni esomisiwe se-Cocos nucifera futhi anokusetshenziswa okuningi, kokubili komlando nesimanje. Isetshenziswe njengephunga, isikhumba, ne-ejenti yokulungisa izinwele, nasemikhiqizweni eminingi yezimonyo. Nakuba uwoyela kakhukhunathi unokuphuma okuningi, okuhlanganisa i-coconut acid, i-hydrogenated coconut acid, namafutha kakhukhunathi e-hydrogenated, sizoxoxa ngezimangalo zocwaningo ezihlotshaniswa kakhulu namafutha kakhukhunathi ayintombi (VCO), alungiswa ngaphandle kokushisa.
Amafutha kakhukhunathi asetshenziselwe ukuthambisa isikhumba sosana futhi angase abe nenzuzo ekwelapheni i-atopic dermatitis kuzo zombili izici zayo zokuthambisa kanye nemiphumela yayo engaba khona ku-Staphylococcus aureus namanye amagciwane esikhumba ezigulini ezine-atopic. Amafutha kakhukhunathi aboniswe ukuthi ehlisa i-S. aureus colonization esikhumbeni sabantu abadala abane-atopic dermatitis ku-RTC eyimpumputhe kabili.
3.2.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokwenza
Amafutha kakhukhunathi akhiwe ngama-triglycerides angama-90-95% agcwele (i-lauric acid, i-myristic acid, i-caprylic acid, i-capric acid, ne-palmitic acid). Lokhu kuphambene namafutha amaningi emifino/esithelo, akhiwe kakhulu ngamafutha angagcwele. Ama-triglycerides agcwele asetshenziswa ngokuphezulu asebenza ukunyakazisa isikhumba njenge-emollient ngokuthambisa imiphetho egobile yama-corneocyte nokugcwalisa izikhala phakathi kwawo.
3.2.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Amafutha kakhukhunathi angathambisa isikhumba esomile esiguga. Amaphesenti angamashumi ayisithupha nambili amafutha ku-VCO anobude obufanayo futhi ama-92% agcwele, okuvumela ukupakisha okuqinile okuholela emthelela omkhulu we-occlusive kunamafutha omnqumo. I-triglycerides emafutheni kakhukhunathi ihlukaniswa ngama-lipase esitshalweni sesikhumba esijwayelekile abe yi-glycerin namafutha acid. I-Glycerin iyi-humectant enamandla, edonsa amanzi ongqimbeni lwe-epidermis avela endaweni engaphandle kanye nezingqimba ezijulile zesikhumba. Ama-fatty acids ku-VCO ane-linoleic acid ephansi, efanelekile njengoba i-linoleic acid ingacasula isikhumba. Amafutha kakhukhunathi aphakeme kunamafutha amaminerali ekwehliseni i-TEWL ezigulini ezine-atopic dermatitis futhi asebenza ngempumelelo futhi aphephe njengamafutha amaminerali ekwelapheni i-xerosis.
I-Lauric acid, isandulela se-monolaurin kanye nengxenye ebalulekile ye-VCO, ingase ibe nezindawo zokulwa nokuvuvukala, ikwazi ukulinganisa ukwanda kwamangqamuzana omzimba futhi ibe nesibopho seminye imiphumela ye-antimicrobial ye-VCO. I-VCO iqukethe amazinga aphezulu e-ferulic acid kanye ne-p-coumaric acid (kokubili ama-phenolic acid), futhi amazinga aphezulu alawa ma-phenolic acid ahlotshaniswa nokwanda komthamo we-antioxidant. Ama-phenolic acids ayasebenza ngokumelene nomonakalo owenziwe yi-UV. Kodwa-ke, naphezu kwezimangalo zokuthi uwoyela kakhukhunathi ungasebenza njengesikhuseli elangeni, ucwaningo lwe-in vitro luphakamisa ukuthi lunikeza amandla amancane okuvimbela i-UV.
Ngaphezu kwemiphumela yayo yokuthambisa kanye ne-antioxidant, amamodeli ezilwane asikisela ukuthi i-VCO inganciphisa isikhathi sokuphulukiswa kwesilonda. Kube nezinga elikhulayo le-collagen encibilikayo i-pepsin (i-collagen ephezulu yokuxhumanisa) emanxebeni alashwe nge-VCO uma kuqhathaniswa nezilawuli. I-Histopathology ibonise ukwanda kwe-fibroblast kanye ne-neovascularization kulawa manxeba. Kudingeka ucwaningo olwengeziwe ukuze ubone ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwe-VCO kwe-topical kungakhuphula amazinga e-collagen esikhumbeni sabantu esiguga.
3.3. I-Crocin
3.3.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
I-Crocin iyingxenye ye-biologically esebenzayo ye-safron, etholakala esikhumbeni esomisiwe se-Crocus sativus L. Liqhakaze lilinywa emazweni amaningi ahlanganisa i-Iran, i-India, ne-Greece, futhi isetshenziswe emithini yendabuko ukuze iqede izifo ezihlukahlukene ezihlanganisa ukucindezeleka, ukuvuvukala. , isifo sesibindi, nabanye abaningi.
3.3.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yesenzo
I-Crocin inesibopho sombala wesafroni. I-Crocin nayo itholakala esithelweni se-Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Ihlukaniswa njenge-carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
I-Crocin inemiphumela ye-antioxidant, ivikela i-squalene ngokumelene ne-UV-induced peroxidation, futhi ivimbele ukukhululwa kwabalamuli abavuvukalayo. Umphumela we-antioxidant ukhonjiswe ekuhlolweni kwe-in vitro okukhombisa umsebenzi ophakeme we-antioxidant uma kuqhathaniswa ne-Vitamin C. Ukwengeza, i-crocin ivimbela i-UVA-induced cell membrane peroxidation futhi ivimbela ukuvezwa kwabalamuli abaningi abanokuvuvukala okuhlanganisa i-IL-8, PGE-2, IL. -6, TNF-α, IL-1α, kanye ne-LTB4. Iphinde yehlise ukuvezwa kwezakhi zofuzo eziningi ezincike ku-NF-κB. Ocwaningweni olusebenzisa ama-fibroblasts abantu akhulisiwe, i-crocin yehlise i-ROS eyenziwe yi-UV, yathuthukisa ukuvezwa kwephrotheni ye-matrix engaphandle kwe-Col-1, futhi yehlisa inani lamaseli ane-phenotypes eyisilonda ngemva kwemisebe ye-UV. Yehlisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-ROS futhi ikhawulela i-apoptosis. I-Crocin iboniswe ukucindezela izindlela zokusayina ze-ERK/MAPK/NF-κB/STAT kumaseli e-HaCaT ku-vitro. Nakuba i-crocin inamandla njenge-cosmeceutical elwa nokuguga, i-compound i-labile. Ukusetshenziswa kwe-nanostructured lipid dispersions ekuphathweni kwe-topical kuye kwaphenywa ngemiphumela ethembisayo. Ukuze unqume imiphumela ye-crocin ku-vivo, amamodeli ezilwane engeziwe kanye nokuhlolwa komtholampilo okungahleliwe kuyadingeka.
3.4. Imfiva
3.4.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
I-Feverfew, i-Tanacetum parthenium, isitshalo esingapheli esisetshenziselwa izinjongo eziningi emithini yesintu.
3.4.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yesenzo
I-Feverfew iqukethe i-parthenolide, i-sesquiterpene lactone, okungenzeka ibe nesibopho seminye yemiphumela yayo yokulwa nokuvuvukala, ngokuvinjelwa kwe-NF-κB. Lokhu kuvinjelwa kwe-NF-κB kubonakala kuzimele emiphumeleni ye-antioxidant ye-parthenolide. I-Parthenolide iphinde yabonisa imiphumela yokulwa nomdlavuza ngokumelene nomdlavuza wesikhumba owenziwe yi-UVB kanye namaseli e-melanoma in vitro. Ngeshwa, i-parthenolide ingase futhi ibangele ukungezwani komzimba, amabhamuza omlomo, kanye ne-allergic contact dermatitis. Ngenxa yalokhu kukhathazeka, manje ngokuvamile iyasuswa ngaphambi kokuba i-feverfew yengezwe emikhiqizweni yezimonyo.
3.4.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Ngenxa yezinkinga ezingaba khona ngokusetshenziswa kwesihloko kwe-parthenolide, eminye imikhiqizo yamanje yezimonyo equkethe i-feverfew isebenzisa i-parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), ethi ayinawo amandla okuzwela. I-PD-feverfew ingathuthukisa umsebenzi wokulungisa i-DNA-endo native esikhumbeni, okungenzeka yehlise umonakalo we-DNA we-UV. Ocwaningweni lwe-in vitro, i-PD-feverfew yanciphisa ukwakheka kwe-hydrogen peroxide eyenziwe yi-UV futhi yehlisa ukukhishwa kwe-cytokine e-pro-inflammatory. Ibonise imiphumela enamandla ye-antioxidant kunesiqhathanisi, i-Vitamin C, futhi yehla i-erythema eyenziwe yi-UV ku-RTC yezihloko eziyi-12.
3.5. Itiye Elihlaza
3.5.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
Itiye elihlaza selidliwe ngezinzuzo zalo zezempilo e-China amakhulu eminyaka. Ngenxa yemiphumela yayo enamandla ye-antioxidant, kunentshisekelo ekuthuthukisweni kokwakheka kwesihloko esizinzile, esitholakala nge-bioavailable.
3.5.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yesenzo
Itiye elihlaza, elivela ku-Camellia sinensis, liqukethe izinhlanganisela eziningi ze-bioactive ezinemiphumela engaba khona yokulwa nokuguga, okuhlanganisa i-caffeine, amavithamini, nama-polyphenols. Ama-polyphenols amakhulu etiyeni eliluhlaza amacatechin, ikakhulukazi i-gallocatechin, i-epigallocatechin (ECG), ne-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate ine-antioxidant, i-photoprotective, immunomodulatory, anti-angiogenic, ne-anti-inflammatory properties. Itiye elihlaza liqukethe amanani aphezulu e-flavonol glycoside kaempferol, emuncwa kahle esikhumbeni ngemuva kokufakwa kwe-topical.
3.5.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Ukukhishwa kwetiye elihlaza kunciphisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-ROS ye-intracellular in vitro futhi kwehle i-ROS-induced necrosis. I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (i-polyphenol yetiye eluhlaza) ivimbela ukukhululwa kwe-UV ye-hydrogen peroxide, icindezela i-phosphorylation ye-MAPK, futhi yehlisa ukuvuvukala ngokusebenzisa i-NF-κB. Kusetshenziswa isikhumba se-ex vivo sowesifazane ophile kahle oneminyaka engu-31 ubudala, isikhumba esifakwe ngaphambili ngetiye elimhlophe noma elihlaza sabonisa ukugcinwa kwamaseli e-Langerhans (amangqamuzana abonisa i-antigen anesibopho sokungeniswa kokungatheleleki esikhunjeni) ngemva kokuchayeka ekukhanyeni kwe-UV.
Kumodeli yegundane, ukusetshenziswa kwesihloko esikhishwe kwetiye eliluhlaza ngaphambi kokuchayeka kwe-UV kuholele ekwehleni kwe-erythema, ukuncipha kokungena kwesikhumba se-leukocyte, kanye nokuncipha komsebenzi we-myeloperoxidase. Ingase futhi ivimbele i-5-α-reductase.
Ucwaningo oluningana oluhilela izifundo zabantu luye lwahlola izinzuzo ezingaba khona zokusetshenziswa kwetiye eliluhlaza. Ukusetshenziswa kwesihloko se-emulsion yetiye eliluhlaza kuvimbe i-5-α-reductase futhi kwaholela ekwehleni kosayizi we-microcomedone ku-microcomedonal acne. Ocwaningweni oluncane lwamasonto ayisithupha lokuhlukaniswa kobuso bomuntu, ukhilimu oqukethe i-EGCG wehlise i-hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) kanye ne-vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), ebonisa amandla okuvimbela i-telangiectasias. Ocwaningweni olungaboni kabili, itiye eliluhlaza, itiye elimhlophe, noma imoto yasetshenziswa kuphela ezinqeni zamavolontiya ayi-10 anempilo. Isikhumba sabe sesikhanyiswa nge-2× minimal erythema dose (MED) ye-UVR eyenziwe ngelanga. Ukuhlolwa kwesikhumba okuvela kulawa masayithi kubonise ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwetiye eliluhlaza noma elimhlophe kunganciphisa kakhulu ukuncipha kwamaseli e-Langerhans, ngokusekelwe ku-CD1a positivity. Kuphinde kwaba nokuvimbela ingxenye yomonakalo we-DNA ye-UV-induced oxidative, njengoba kufakazelwa amazinga anciphile we-8-OHdG. Ocwaningweni oluhlukile, amavolontiya amadala angama-90 ahlelwa ngokungahleliwe aba ngamaqembu amathathu: Akukho ukwelashwa, itiye eliluhlaza, noma itiye elimhlophe. Iqembu ngalinye laphinde lahlukaniswa laba amazinga ahlukene emisebe ye-UV. Isici sokuvikela ilanga se-in vivo sitholakale sicishe sibe yi-SPF 1.
3.6. I-Marigold
3.6.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
I-Marigold, i-Calendula officinalis, isitshalo esiqhakaza esinephunga elimnandi esinamathuba okwelapha. Isetshenziswe emithini yesintu e-Europe nase-United States njengomuthi wokushiswa, imihuzuko, ukusikeka kanye nokuqubuka. U-Marigold uphinde wabonisa imiphumela ye-anticancer kumamodeli we-murine we-non-melanoma umdlavuza wesikhumba.
3.6.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokwenza
Izingxenye zamakhemikhali eziyinhloko zama-marigolds ama-steroids, ama-terpenoids, ama-alcohol amahhala kanye ne-esterified triterpene, ama-phenolic acid, ama-flavonoids, nezinye izinhlanganisela. Nakuba olunye ucwaningo lwabonisa ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwezihloko ze-marigold ekhishwe kungase kunciphise ukuqina nobuhlungu be-radiation dermatitis ezigulini ezithola imisebe yomdlavuza webele, ezinye izivivinyo zomtholampilo azizange zibonise ukuphakama uma ziqhathaniswa nokusetyenziswa kwe-aqueous cream kuphela.
3.6.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
I-Marigold inemiphumela ye-antioxidant ebonisiwe kanye nemiphumela ye-cytotoxic kumaseli omdlavuza womuntu kumodeli yeseli yesikhumba somuntu e-in vitro. Ocwaningweni oluhlukile lwe-in vitro, ukhilimu oqukethe uwoyela we-calendula wahlolwa nge-UV spectrophotometric futhi watholakala une-spectrum yokumunca ebangeni lika-290-320 nm; lokhu kwathathwa njengokusho ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwalesi sikhilimu kunikeza isivikelo esihle elangeni. Kubalulekile ukuqaphela, nokho, ukuthi lokhu bekungelona ukuhlolwa kwe-vivo okubala isilinganiso esincane se-erythema kumavolontiya angabantu futhi akukacaci ukuthi lokhu kuzohumushwa kanjani ezivivinyweni zomtholampilo.
Kumodeli ye-in vivo murine, i-marigold extract ibonise umphumela onamandla we-antioxidant ngemva kokuchayeka kwe-UV. Ocwaningweni oluhlukile, olubandakanya amagundane e-albino, ukusetshenziswa kwesihloko samafutha abalulekile e-calendula kunciphisa i-malondialdehyde (umaka wokucindezeleka kwe-oxidative) ngenkathi kwandisa amazinga e-catalase, i-glutathione, i-superoxide dismutase, ne-ascorbic acid esikhumbeni.
Ocwaningweni lwamasonto ayisishiyagalombili oluyimpumputhe eyodwa nezifundo zabantu ezingama-21, ukusetshenziswa kwe-calendula ukhilimu ezihlathini kwandise ukucinana kwesikhumba kodwa akuzange kube nemiphumela ebalulekile ekunwebekeni kwesikhumba.
Umkhawulo ongase ube khona ekusetshenzisweni kwe-marigold ezimonyoni ukuthi i-marigold iyimbangela eyaziwayo ye-allergic contact dermatitis, njengamanye amalungu amaningana omndeni wakwaCompositae.
3.7. Ihalananda
3.7.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
Igromegranate, i-Punica granatum, inamandla okulwa ne-antioxidant futhi isetshenziswe emikhiqizweni eminingi njenge-antioxidant ye-topical. Okuqukethwe kwayo okuphezulu kwe-antioxidant kuyenza ibe isithako esingaba mnandi ekwakhiweni kwezimonyo.
3.7.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokwenza
Izingxenye ze-biologically ezisebenzayo zehalananda yi-tannins, i-anthocyanins, i-ascorbic acid, i-niacin, i-potassium, ne-alkaloids ye-piperidine. Lezi zingxenye zebhayoloji ezisebenzayo zingakhishwa kujusi, imbewu, ikhasi, amagxolo, impande, noma isiqu sehalananda. Ezinye zalezi zingxenye kucatshangwa ukuthi zine-antitumor, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, antioxidant, kanye nemiphumela ye-photoprotective. Ukwengeza, ihalananda liwumthombo onamandla wama-polyphenols. I-Ellegic acid, ingxenye yokukhishwa kwehalananda, ingase yehlise ukugqama kwesikhumba. Ngenxa yokuba yisithako esithembisayo sokulwa nokuguga, izifundo eziningi ziye zaphenya izindlela zokwandisa ukungena kwesikhumba kwalesi sakhi ukuze sisetshenziswe ngezihloko.
3.7.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Ukukhishwa kwesithelo sepomegranate kuvikela ama-fibroblasts abantu, i-in vitro, ekufeni kweseli okubangelwa yi-UV; cishe ngenxa yokuncipha kokusebenza kwe-NF-κB, ukwehliswa kwe-proapoptotic caspace-3, nokwandisa ukulungiswa kwe-DNA. Ibonisa imiphumela ekhuthaza i-anti-skin-tumor ku-vitro futhi ivimbela ukuguquguquka okwenziwe yi-UVB kwezindlela ze-NF-κB ne-MAPK. Ukusetshenziswa kwe-topical ye-pomegranate rind extract kwehlisa i-COX-2 esikhumbeni sengulube esanda kukhishwa, okuholela emiphumeleni ebalulekile yokulwa nokuvuvukala. Nakuba i-ellegic acid ivame ukucatshangwa njengengxenye esebenzayo kakhulu ye-pomegranate extract, imodeli ye-murine ibonise umsebenzi ophezulu wokulwa nokuvuvukala nge-standardized pomegranate rind extract uma kuqhathaniswa ne-ellegic acid kuphela. Ukusetshenziswa kwesihloko kwe-microemulsion ye-pomegranate ekhishwe kusetshenziswa i-polysorbate surfactant (Tween 80®) ekuqhathanisweni kobuso obuhlukene obungamaviki angu-12 nezihloko ezingu-11, kubonise i-melanin enciphile (ngenxa ye-tyrosinase inhibition) kanye nokuncipha kwe-erythema uma kuqhathaniswa nokulawula imoto.
3.8. Isoya
3.8.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
Ubhontshisi wesoya uwukudla okunamaprotheni amaningi okunezingxenye ze-bioactive ezingase zibe nemiphumela yokulwa nokuguga. Ikakhulukazi, ubhontshisi wesoya uphezulu kuma-isoflavones, angase abe nemiphumela ye-anticarcinogenic kanye nemiphumela efana ne-estrogen ngenxa yesakhiwo se-diphenolic. Le miphumela efana ne-estrogen ingase ilwe neminye yemiphumela yokunqamuka kokuya esikhathini ekugugeni kwesikhumba.
3.8.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yesenzo
I-Soy, evela ku-Glycine maxi, inamaprotheni amaningi futhi iqukethe ama-isoflavones, afaka i-glycitein, i-equol, i-daidzein, ne-genistein. Lawa ma-isoflavones, abizwa nangokuthi ama-phytoestrogens, angase abe nemiphumela ye-estrogenic kubantu.
3.8.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Ubhontshisi wesoya uqukethe ama-isoflavone amaningi anezinzuzo ezingaba khona zokulwa nokuguga. Phakathi kweminye imiphumela ye-biologic, i-glycitein ibonisa imiphumela ye-antioxidant. I-dermal fibroblasts ephathwa nge-glycitein ibonise ukwanda kwamangqamuzana nokufuduka, ukwanda kokuhlanganiswa kwezinhlobo ze-collagen I no-III, futhi yehla i-MMP-1. Ocwaningweni oluhlukile, i-soy extract yahlanganiswa ne-hematococcus extract (ulwelwe lwamanzi ahlanzekile futhi luphezulu kuma-antioxidants), okwehlisela phansi i-MMP-1 mRNA kanye nokubonakaliswa kwamaprotheni. I-Daidzein, i-soy isoflavone, ibonise imiphumela yokulwa nokushwabana, ukukhanyisa isikhumba, kanye ne-skin-hydrating. I-Diadzein ingase isebenze ngokuvula i-estrogen-receptor-β esikhumbeni, okuholela ekukhulumeni okuthuthukisiwe kwama-antioxidants angapheli kanye nokunciphisa ukubonakaliswa kwezinto ezibhaliwe eziholela ekwandeni kwe-keratinocyte nokufuduka. I-isoflavonoid equol etholakala ku-soy yandisa i-collagen ne-elastin futhi yehla ama-MMP esikweni lamaseli.
Ucwaningo olwengeziwe lwe-vivo murine lubonisa ukuncipha kokufa kweseli okubangelwa yi-UVB kanye nokuncipha kokuqina kwe-epidermal kumaseli ngemva kokusetshenziswa kwezihloko ze-isoflavone ezikhishwe. Ocwaningweni lokuhlola olwenziwa kwabesifazane abangu-30 abangemva kokumenopausal, ukuphathwa ngomlomo kwe-isoflavone ekhishwe izinyanga eziyisithupha kubangele ukushuba kwe-epidermal kanye nokwanda kwe-collagen yesikhumba njengoba kukalwa ngama-biopsies esikhumba ezindaweni ezivikelwe ilanga. Ocwaningweni oluhlukile, ama-soy isoflavone ahlanjululwe avimbela ukufa kwe-keratinocyte okubangelwa yi-UV futhi ehla i-TEWL, ukushuba kwe-epidermal, kanye ne-erythema esikhumbeni segundane esivezwe yi-UV.
I-RCT ezoba yizimpumputhe kabili yabesifazane be-30 abaneminyaka engu-45-55 iqhathanise ukusetshenziswa kwesihloko se-estrogen ne-genistein (soy isoflavone) esikhumbeni amasonto angu-24. Nakuba iqembu elisebenzisa i-estrogen esikhumbeni libe nemiphumela ephakeme kakhulu, womabili amaqembu abonise uhlobo olukhuphukile lwe-collagen yobuso I no-III esekelwe esikhumbeni sesikhumba se-preauricular. Ama-oligopeptides e-soy angehlisa inkomba ye-erythema esikhunjeni esivezwe yi-UVB (ingaphambili) futhi anciphise amangqamuzana ashiswa yilanga nama-cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers kumaseli ejwabu ane-UVB-irradiated ex vivo. Ukuhlolwa komtholampilo okungamaviki angu-12 okulawulwa yimoto okungaboni lutho okungahleliwe okubandakanya abantu besifazane abangu-65 abanokulimala kwesithombe sobuso okumaphakathi kubonise ukuthuthuka kombala onamabala, ukubola, ubuthuntu, imigqa emihle, ukuthungwa kwesikhumba, nethoni yesikhumba uma kuqhathaniswa nemoto. Ndawonye, lezi zici zinganikeza imiphumela engaba khona yokulwa nokuguga, kodwa izivivinyo zomtholampilo eziqinile ezingahleliwe ziyadingeka ukuze kuboniswe inzuzo yakho ngokwanele.
4. Ingxoxo
Imikhiqizo yezitshalo, kuhlanganise naleyo okuxoxwe ngayo lapha, inemiphumela engaba khona yokulwa nokuguga. Izindlela ze-botanicals ezilwa nokuguga zifaka amandla amahhala wokulahla ama-antioxidant afakwe phezulu, ukukhuphula ukuvikeleka kwelanga, ukwanda kokuswakama kwesikhumba, kanye nemiphumela eminingi eholela ekwandeni kokwakheka kwe-collagen noma ukuncipha kokuqhekeka kwe-collagen. Eminye yale miphumela inesizotha uma iqhathaniswa nemithi, kodwa lokhu akwehlisi inzuzo yabo engaba khona uma isetshenziswa ngokuhambisana nezinye izinyathelo ezinjengokugwema ilanga, ukusetshenziswa kwemithi yokuvikela ilanga, ukuthambisa kwansuku zonke kanye nokwelashwa okufanele kochwepheshe besikhumba kwezimo ezikhona zesikhumba.
Ukwengeza, i-botanicals inikeza ezinye izithako ezisebenzayo ze-biologically ezigulini ezikhetha ukusebenzisa izithako "zemvelo" kuphela esikhumbeni sazo. Nakuba lezi zithako zitholakala emvelweni, kubalulekile ukugcizelela ezigulini ukuthi lokhu akusho ukuthi lezi zithako zinemiphumela emibi, empeleni, imikhiqizo eminingi ye-botanical iyaziwa ukuthi iyimbangela engase ibe imbangela ye-allergenic contact dermatitis.
Njengoba imikhiqizo yezimonyo ingadingi izinga elifanayo lobufakazi ukufakazela ukusebenza kahle, kuvame ukuba nzima ukunquma ukuthi izimangalo zemiphumela yokulwa nokuguga ziyiqiniso yini. Eziningana zezitshalo ezibalwe lapha, nokho, zinemiphumela engaba khona yokulwa nokuguga, kodwa ukuhlolwa komtholampilo okuqinile kuyadingeka. Nakuba kunzima ukubikezela ukuthi la ma-botanical agents azozuzisa kanjani ngokuqondile iziguli kanye nabathengi esikhathini esizayo, kungenzeka kakhulu ukuthi iningi lala ma-botanicals, ukwakheka okuwahlanganisa njengezithako kuzoqhubeka kwethulwa njengemikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba futhi uma gcina umkhawulo obanzi wokuphepha, ukwamukelwa okuphezulu kwabathengi, kanye nokuthengeka okuphelele, zizohlala ziyingxenye yezinqubo zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ezijwayelekile, zinikeze izinzuzo ezincane empilweni yesikhumba. Kodwa-ke, ngenani elilinganiselwe lalawa ma-ejenti ezitshalo, umthelela omkhulu kubantu uwonke ungase utholwe ngokuqinisa ubufakazi besenzo sabo sebhayoloji, ngokuhlolwa okujwayelekile okuphezulu kwe-biomarker bese kuthi ngemva kwalokho kufakwe okuhlosiwe okuthembisa kakhulu ekuhlolweni kokuhlolwa komtholampilo.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: May-11-2023
