Njengoba isikhumba siguga, kuba nokwehla komsebenzi we-physiologic. Lezi zinguquko zibangelwa yizici zangaphakathi (zesikhathi) kanye nezangaphandle (ezibangelwa kakhulu yi-UV). Izitshalo zinikeza izinzuzo ezingaba khona zokulwa nezinye zezimpawu zokuguga. Lapha, sibuyekeza izitshalo ezithile kanye nobufakazi besayensi obusekela izimangalo zazo zokulwa nokuguga. Izitshalo zingase zinikeze imiphumela yokulwa nokuvuvukala, i-antioxidant, i-moisturizing, i-UV-protective, kanye neminye. Izinhlobo eziningi zezitshalo zibhalwe njengezithako ezimonyweni nasezimonyweni ezidumile, kodwa zimbalwa kuphela ezikhethiwe ezixoxwa lapha. Lezi zikhethwe ngokusekelwe ekutholakaleni kwedatha yesayensi, intshisekelo yomuntu siqu yababhali, kanye "nokuthandwa" okubonwayo kwemikhiqizo yamanje yezimonyo kanye nezimonyo. Izitshalo ezibuyekezwe lapha zifaka uwoyela we-argan, uwoyela kakhukhunathi, i-crocin, i-feverfew, itiye eliluhlaza, i-marigold, i-pomegranate, kanye ne-soy.
Amagama angukhiye: i-botanical; i-anti-aging; i-argan oil; i-coconut oil; i-crocin; i-feverfew; itiye eliluhlaza; i-marigold; i-pomegranate; i-soy
3.1. Amafutha e-Argan
3.1.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, kanye Nezimangalo
Uwoyela we-Argan utholakala eMorocco futhi ukhiqizwa ngembewu ye-Argania sponosa L. Unezindlela eziningi zendabuko njengokupheka, ukwelapha izifo zesikhumba, kanye nokunakekelwa kwesikhumba nezinwele.
3.1.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
Amafutha e-Argan akhiwa ngamafutha angama-monounsaturated angu-80% kanye nama-acid agcwele angu-20% futhi aqukethe ama-polyphenols, ama-tocopherols, ama-sterols, i-squalene, kanye ne-triterpene alcohol.
3.1.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Amafutha e-Argan ayevame ukusetshenziswa eMorocco ukunciphisa umbala wobuso, kodwa isisekelo sesayensi salesi simangalo sasingaqondwanga ngaphambili. Esifundweni segundane, amafutha e-argan avimbele ukubonakaliswa kwe-tyrosinase kanye ne-dopachrome tautomerase kumaseli e-B16 murine melanoma, okwaholela ekunciphiseni kokuqukethwe kwe-melanin okuncike kumthamo. Lokhu kusikisela ukuthi amafutha e-argan angaba ngumvimbi onamandla we-melanin biosynthesis, kodwa kudingeka izivivinyo zokulawula ezingahleliwe (RTC) kubantu ukuze kuqinisekiswe lo mbono.
I-RTC encane yabesifazane abangu-60 asebekhulile basikisele ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwansuku zonke kanye/noma ukusetshenziswa kwamafutha e-argan kunciphisa ukulahleka kwamanzi e-transepidermal (TEWL), ukunwebeka kwesikhumba okuthuthukisiwe, ngokusekelwe ekwandeni kwe-R2 (ukunwebeka okukhulu kwesikhumba), i-R5 (ukunwebeka okuhlanzekile kwesikhumba), kanye ne-R7 (ukunwebeka kwezinto eziphilayo) kanye nokwehla kwesikhathi sokusebenza kwe-resonance (RRT) (isilinganiso esihlobene ngokuphambene nokwenwebeka kwesikhumba). Amaqembu ahlelwa ngokungahleliwe ukuze adle amafutha omnqumo noma amafutha e-argan. Womabili amaqembu asebenzisa amafutha e-argan esihlakaleni se-volar kwesobunxele kuphela. Ukulinganisa kuthathwe ezihlakaleni ze-volar kwesokudla nesobunxele. Ukuthuthuka kokunwebeka kubonwe kuwo womabili amaqembu esihlakaleni lapho amafutha e-argan ayefakwa khona, kodwa esihlakaleni lapho amafutha e-argan ayengasetshenziswanga khona kuphela iqembu elidla amafutha e-argan landa kakhulu ukunwebeka [31]. Lokhu kwabangelwa ukwanda kokuqukethwe kwe-antioxidant kumafutha e-argan uma kuqhathaniswa namafutha omnqumo. Kucatshangwa ukuthi lokhu kungenzeka ngenxa yokuqukethwe kwayo kwe-Vitamin E kanye ne-ferulic acid, okuyi-antioxidants eyaziwayo.
3.2. Amafutha kakhukhunathi
3.2.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, kanye Nezimangalo
Amafutha kakhukhunathi atholakala esithelweni esomisiwe seCocos nucifera futhi anezindlela eziningi zokusetshenziswa, kokubili zomlando nezanamuhla. Asetshenziswe njenge-agent yephunga, isikhumba, kanye nokulungisa izinwele, kanye nemikhiqizo eminingi yezimonyo. Nakuba amafutha kakhukhunathi enezinhlobo eziningi, okuhlanganisa i-coconut acid, i-hydrogenated coconut acid, kanye namafutha kakhukhunathi ane-hydrogenated, sizoxoxa ngezimangalo zocwaningo ezihlobene kakhulu namafutha kakhukhunathi angenasici (VCO), alungiswa ngaphandle kokushisa.
Uwoyela kakhukhunathi usetshenziswe ekuthambiseni isikhumba sezinsana futhi ungaba usizo ekwelapheni i-atopic dermatitis ngenxa yezakhiwo zayo zokuthambisa kanye nemiphumela engaba khona ku-Staphylococcus aureus kanye nezinye izilokazane zesikhumba ezigulini ezinesifo sokuwa. Uwoyela kakhukhunathi uboniswe ukuthi wehlisa ukwakheka kwe-S. aureus esikhumbeni sabantu abadala abane-atopic dermatitis ku-RTC engaboni kabili.
3.2.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
Uwoyela kakhukhunathi wakhiwe ngama-triglyceride agcwele angu-90–95% (i-lauric acid, i-myristic acid, i-caprylic acid, i-capric acid, kanye ne-palmitic acid). Lokhu kuhlukile kumafutha amaningi emifino/ezithelo, ahlanganiswe kakhulu ngamafutha angagcwele. Ama-triglyceride agcwele asetshenziswa phezulu asebenza ukuthambisa isikhumba njengesithambisi ngokusitha imiphetho eyomile egobile yama-corneocytes nokugcwalisa izikhala phakathi kwawo.
3.2.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Amafutha kakhukhunathi angathambisa isikhumba esomile esigugile. Amaphesenti angamashumi ayisithupha nambili ama-fatty acid ku-VCO anobude obufanayo kanti angu-92% agcwele, okuvumela ukupakisha okuqinile okuholela emphumeleni omkhulu wokuvaleka kunamafutha omnqumo. Ama-triglycerides kumafutha kakhukhunathi ahlukaniswa yi-lipases ezitshalweni zesikhumba ezivamile kuya ku-glycerin kanye nama-fatty acid. I-Glycerin iyi-humectant enamandla, edonsela amanzi ongqimbeni lwe-cornea ye-epidermis kusuka endaweni engaphandle kanye nasezingqimbeni zesikhumba ezijulile. Ama-fatty acid ku-VCO anokuqukethwe okuphansi kwe-linoleic acid, okubalulekile ngoba i-linoleic acid ingacasula isikhumba. Amafutha kakhukhunathi angcono kunamafutha amaminerali ekunciphiseni i-TEWL ezigulini ezine-atopic dermatitis futhi asebenza kahle futhi aphephile njengamafutha amaminerali ekwelapheni i-xerosis.
I-Lauric acid, eyandulela i-monolaurin futhi eyingxenye ebalulekile ye-VCO, ingaba nezakhiwo zokulwa nokuvuvukala, ikwazi ukulawula ukwanda kwamangqamuzana omzimba futhi ibe nesibopho seminye yemiphumela yokulwa namagciwane ye-VCO. I-VCO iqukethe amazinga aphezulu e-ferulic acid kanye ne-p-coumaric acid (zombili i-phenolic acid), futhi amazinga aphezulu ala ma-phenolic acid ahlotshaniswa nomthamo okhulayo we-antioxidant. Ama-phenolic acid ayasebenza ngokumelene nomonakalo obangelwa yi-UV. Kodwa-ke, naphezu kwezinsolo zokuthi uwoyela kakhukhunathi ungasebenza njenge-sunscreen, izifundo ze-in vitro ziphakamisa ukuthi inikeza amandla amancane okuvimba i-UV.
Ngaphezu kwemiphumela yayo yokuthambisa nokuvikela amaseli, amamodeli ezilwane asikisela ukuthi i-VCO inganciphisa isikhathi sokuphulukiswa kwamanxeba. Kwakukhona izinga elikhuphukile le-collagen encibilikayo ye-pepsin (i-collagen cross-linking ephezulu) emanxebeni aphathwe yi-VCO uma kuqhathaniswa nezilawuli. I-Histopathology ibonise ukwanda kwe-fibroblast kanye ne-neovascularization kula manxeba. Kudingeka izifundo ezengeziwe ukuze kubonwe ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwe-VCO endaweni ethintekile kungawandisa yini amazinga e-collagen esikhumbeni somuntu esigugayo.
3.3. I-Crocin
3.3.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
I-Crocin iyisakhi esisebenzayo se-saffron, esitholakala ekwebiweni okomisiwe kwe-Crocus sativus L. I-Saffron itshalwa emazweni amaningi kufaka phakathi i-Iran, i-India, ne-Greece, futhi isetshenziswe kwezokwelapha zendabuko ukunciphisa izifo ezahlukahlukene kufaka phakathi ukucindezeleka, ukuvuvukala, isifo sesibindi, nezinye eziningi.
3.3.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
I-Crocin inesibopho sombala we-saffron. I-Crocin itholakala nasesithelweni se-Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Ihlukaniswa njenge-carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
I-Crocin inemiphumela yokulwa ne-antioxidant, ivikela i-squalene ekuhlaselweni yi-UV, futhi ivimbela ukukhishwa kwezidakamizwa zokuvuvukala. Umphumela we-antioxidant uboniswe ekuhlolweni kwe-in vitro okubonisa umsebenzi ophakeme we-antioxidant uma kuqhathaniswa ne-Vitamin C. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-crocin ivimbela i-UVA-induced cell membrane peroxidation futhi ivimbela ukuvezwa kwezidakamizwa eziningi ezibangela ukuvuvukala okuhlanganisa i-IL-8, i-PGE-2, i-IL-6, i-TNF-α, i-IL-1α, kanye ne-LTB4. Iphinde yehlise ukuvezwa kwezakhi zofuzo eziningi ezixhomeke ku-NF-κB. Ocwaningweni olusebenzisa ama-fibroblast abantu akhuliswe kahle, i-crocin yehlisa i-UV-induced ROS, yakhuthaza ukuvezwa kweprotheni ye-extracellular matrix Col-1, futhi yehlisa inani lamaseli ane-phenotypes esenesikhathi ngemuva kwemisebe ye-UV. Yehlisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-ROS futhi ikhawulela i-apoptosis. I-Crocin iboniswe ukuthi icindezela izindlela zokubonisa ze-ERK/MAPK/NF-κB/STAT kumaseli e-HaCaT in vitro. Nakuba i-crocin inamandla njenge-cosmeceutical yokulwa nokuguga, i-compound ayisebenzi. Ukusetshenziswa kwe-nanostructured lipid dispersions ekuphathweni kwangaphandle kuye kwahlolwa ngemiphumela ethembisayo. Ukuze kutholakale imiphumela ye-crocin in vivo, kudingeka amamodeli ezilwane engeziwe kanye nezivivinyo zemitholampilo ezingahleliwe.
3.4. I-Feverfew
3.4.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
I-Feverfew, i-Tanacetum parthenium, iyisitshalo esihlala isikhathi eside esisetshenziswe ngezinhloso eziningi emithini yesintu.
3.4.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
I-Feverfew iqukethe i-parthenolide, i-sesquiterpene lactone, engaba yimbangela yeminye yemiphumela yayo yokulwa nokuvuvukala, ngokuvimbela i-NF-κB. Lokhu kuvimbela i-NF-κB kubonakala kuzimele emiphumeleni ye-parthenolide yokulwa nokuvuvukala. I-Parthenolide iphinde yabonisa imiphumela yokulwa nomdlavuza ngokumelene nomdlavuza wesikhumba obangelwa yi-UVB kanye namangqamuzana e-melanoma in vitro. Ngeshwa, i-parthenolide ingabangela nokusabela kokungezwani komzimba, amabhamuza omlomo, kanye ne-allergy contact dermatitis. Ngenxa yalezi zinkinga, manje isuswa ngokuvamile ngaphambi kokuba i-feverfew ingezwe emikhiqizweni yezimonyo.
3.4.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Ngenxa yezinkinga ezingaba khona ngokusetshenziswa kwe-parthenolide endaweni ethintekile, eminye imikhiqizo yezimonyo yamanje equkethe i-feverfew isebenzisa i-parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), ethi ayinawo amandla okuzwela. I-PD-feverfew ingathuthukisa umsebenzi wokulungisa i-DNA esikhumbeni, okungenzeka inciphise umonakalo we-DNA obangelwa yi-UV. Esifundweni se-in vitro, i-PD-feverfew yanciphisa ukwakheka kwe-hydrogen peroxide ebangelwa yi-UV futhi yehlisa ukukhishwa kwe-cytokine ebangela ukuvuvukala. Ibonise imiphumela enamandla ye-antioxidant kune-comparator, i-Vitamin C, kanye ne-erythema ebangelwa yi-UV encishisiwe ku-RTC yabantu abangu-12.
3.5. Itiye Eliluhlaza
3.5.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
Itiye eliluhlaza selisetshenziswe ngenxa yezinzuzo zalo zezempilo eShayina amakhulu eminyaka. Ngenxa yemiphumela yalo enamandla yokulwa nama-antioxidant, kukhona intshisekelo ekuthuthukisweni kwefomula ezinzile netholakala kalula.
3.5.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
Itiye eliluhlaza, elivela ku-Camellia sinensis, liqukethe amakhemikhali amaningi asebenzayo anemiphumela yokulwa nokuguga, okuhlanganisa i-caffeine, amavithamini, nama-polyphenols. Ama-polyphenol amakhulu etiyeni eliluhlaza yi-catechins, ikakhulukazi i-gallocatechin, i-epigallocatechin (ECG), kanye ne-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate inezakhiwo ze-antioxidant, i-photoprotective, i-immunomodulatory, i-anti-angiogenic, kanye ne-anti-inflammatory. Itiye eliluhlaza liqukethe nenani elikhulu le-flavonol glycoside kaempferol, emuncwa kahle esikhumbeni ngemva kokusetshenziswa endaweni ethintekile.
3.5.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
I-Green tea extract inciphisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-ROS ngaphakathi kweseli ngaphakathi kwe-vitro futhi yehlise i-necrosis ebangelwa yi-ROS. I-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (i-green tea polyphenol) ivimbela ukukhishwa kwe-hydrogen peroxide okubangelwa yi-UV, icindezela i-phosphorylation ye-MAPK, futhi yehlisa ukuvuvukala ngokusebenzisa i-NF-κB. Ukusebenzisa isikhumba se-ex vivo esivela kowesifazane oneminyaka engu-31 ubudala onempilo, isikhumba esiphathwe kusengaphambili nge-white noma i-green tea extract sibonise ukugcinwa kwamaseli e-Langerhans (amaseli aveza i-antigen abangela ukufakwa kwamasosha omzimba esikhumbeni) ngemva kokuvezwa ukukhanya kwe-UV.
Kumodeli yegundane, ukusetshenziswa kwetiye eliluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ngaphambi kokuvezwa yi-UV kwaholela ekunciphiseni i-erythema, ukwehla kokungena kwesikhumba kwama-leukocyte, kanye nokwehla komsebenzi we-myeloperoxidase. Kungavimbela futhi i-5-α-reductase.
Izifundo eziningana ezihilela abantu ziye zahlola izinzuzo ezingaba khona zokusetshenziswa kwetiye eliluhlaza endaweni ethintekile. Ukusetshenziswa kwetiye eliluhlaza endaweni ethintekile kuvimbele i-5-α-reductase futhi kwaholela ekunciphiseni usayizi we-microcomedone kuma-acne e-microcomedonal. Esifundweni esincane sobuso obuhlukanisiwe babantu samasonto ayisithupha, ukhilimu oqukethe i-EGCG wehlise i-hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) kanye nokubonakaliswa kwe-vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), okubonisa amandla okuvimbela ama-telangiectasias. Esifundweni esingaboni kahle, kungaba itiye eliluhlaza, itiye elimhlophe, noma imoto kuphela kwasetshenziswa ezinqeni zabantu abayi-10 abanempilo abazinikele. Isikhumba sabe sesishiswa nge-2× minimal erythema dose (MED) ye-solar-simulated UVR. I-skin biopsies evela kulezi zindawo ibonise ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwetiye eliluhlaza noma elimhlophe kunganciphisa kakhulu ukuncipha kwamaseli e-Langerhans, ngokusekelwe ku-CD1a positivity. Kwakukhona nokuvimbela okuyingxenye komonakalo we-oxidative DNA obangelwa yi-UV, njengoba kufakazelwa amazinga aphansi e-8-OHdG. Esifundweni esihlukile, abantu abadala abangama-90 bavolontiwe ngokungahleliwe baba amaqembu amathathu: Akukho ukwelashwa, itiye eliluhlaza elivela ngaphandle, noma itiye elimhlophe elivela ngaphandle. Iqembu ngalinye lahlukaniswa futhi ngamazinga ahlukene emisebe ye-UV. Isici sokuvikela ilanga esitholakala ngaphakathi emzimbeni sitholakale cishe singama-SPF 1.
3.6. I-Marigold
3.6.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
I-Marigold, i-Calendula officinalis, iyisitshalo esiqhakaza izimbali esinomnandi esinamathuba okwelapha. Isetshenziswe kwezokwelapha zesintu eYurophu nase-United States njengomuthi okhethekile wokusha, imihuzuko, ukusikeka, kanye nokuqubuka. I-Marigold iphinde yabonisa imiphumela yokulwa nomdlavuza kumamodeli e-murine omdlavuza wesikhumba ongeyona i-melanoma.
3.6.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
Izakhi zamakhemikhali eziyinhloko ze-marigolds ama-steroid, ama-terpenoid, ama-triterpene alcohols amahhala nane-esterified, ama-phenolic acid, ama-flavonoid, namanye ama-compounds. Nakuba olunye ucwaningo lubonise ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwe-marigold extract ngaphandle kunganciphisa ubunzima nobuhlungu be-radiation dermatitis ezigulini ezithola imisebe yomdlavuza webele, ezinye izivivinyo zemitholampilo azibonisi ukuthi zingcono uma kuqhathaniswa nokusetshenziswa kwe-aqueous cream kuphela.
3.6.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
I-Marigold ine-antioxidant ebonakala kahle kanye nemiphumela ye-cytotoxic kumaseli omdlavuza womuntu kumodeli yeseli lesikhumba lomuntu elise-in vitro. Esifundweni esihlukile se-in vitro, ukhilimu oqukethe uwoyela we-calendula wahlolwa nge-UV spectrophotometric futhi kwatholakala ukuthi une-spectrum yokumunca ebangeni elingu-290-320 nm; lokhu kwathathwa njengokusho ukuthi ukusetshenziswa kwalolu khilimu kunikeza isivikelo esihle selanga. Nokho, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi lokhu kwakungeyona ukuhlolwa kwe-in vivo okwabala umthamo omncane we-erythema kubantu abazithandelayo futhi akucaci ukuthi lokhu kuzohumusha kanjani ezivivinyweni zemitholampilo.
Kumodeli ye-murine ye-in vivo, i-marigold extract ibonise umphumela onamandla we-antioxidant ngemva kokuchayeka ku-UV. Ocwaningweni oluhlukile, oluhilela amagundane e-albino, ukusetshenziswa kwe-calendula essential oil phezulu kunciphisa i-malondialdehyde (uphawu lokucindezeleka kwe-oxidative) ngenkathi kukhulisa amazinga e-catalase, i-glutathione, i-superoxide dismutase, kanye ne-ascorbic acid esikhumbeni.
Esifundweni samasonto ayisishiyagalombili esingaboniwe amehlo kubantu abangu-21, ukusetshenziswa kokhilimu we-calendula ezihlathini kwandisa ukuqina kwesikhumba kodwa akuzange kube nemiphumela ebalulekile ekuqineni kwesikhumba.
Umkhawulo ongaba khona ekusetshenzisweni kwe-marigold ezimonyweni ukuthi i-marigold iyimbangela eyaziwayo ye-allergy contact dermatitis, njengamanye amalungu amaningana omndeni wakwaCompositae.
3.7. Ipomegranate
3.7.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
I-pomegranate, i-Punica granatum, inamandla okulwa ne-antioxidant futhi isetshenziswe emikhiqizweni eminingi njenge-antioxidant esetshenziswayo. Okuqukethwe kwayo okuphezulu kwe-antioxidant kwenza kube yisithako esithakazelisayo ekwakhiweni kwezimonyo.
3.7.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
Izingxenye ezisebenzayo ngokwemvelo zepomegranate yi-tannins, i-anthocyanins, i-ascorbic acid, i-niacin, i-potassium, kanye ne-piperidine alkaloids. Lezi zingxenye ezisebenzayo ngokwemvelo zingakhishwa kujusi, imbewu, ikhasi, igxolo, impande, noma isiqu sepomegranate. Ezinye zalezi zingxenye kucatshangwa ukuthi zinemiphumela yokulwa nokuvuvukala, ukulwa namagciwane, i-antioxidant, kanye ne-photoprotective. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ipomegranate ingumthombo onamandla wama-polyphenols. I-Ellegic acid, ingxenye ye-pomegranate extract, inganciphisa umbala wesikhumba. Ngenxa yokuba yisithako esithembisayo sokulwa nokuguga, izifundo eziningi ziphenye izindlela zokwandisa ukungena kwesikhumba kwalesi sakhi ukuze sisetshenziswe endaweni ethintekile.
3.7.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
I-pomegranate fruit extract ivikela ama-fibroblast abantu, in vitro, ekufeni kwamaseli okubangelwa yi-UV; cishe ngenxa yokuncipha kokusebenza kwe-NF-κB, ukwehla kwe-proapoptotic caspace-3, kanye nokwanda kokulungiswa kwe-DNA. Ibonisa imiphumela ekhuthaza ukulwa nomdlavuza wesikhumba in vitro futhi ivimbela ukuguqulwa kwe-NF-κB kanye nezindlela ze-MAPK okubangelwa yi-UVB. Ukusetshenziswa kwe-pomegranate rind extract kunciphisa i-COX-2 esikhumbeni sengulube esisanda kukhishwa, okuholela emiphumeleni ebalulekile yokulwa nokuvuvukala. Nakuba i-ellegic acid ivame ukucatshangwa ukuthi iyisakhi esisebenza kakhulu se-pomegranate extract, imodeli ye-murine ibonise umsebenzi ophezulu wokulwa nokuvuvukala nge-pomegranate rind extract ejwayelekile uma kuqhathaniswa ne-ellegic acid yodwa. Ukusetshenziswa kwe-microemulsion ye-pomegranate extract kusetshenziswa i-polysorbate surfactant (Tween 80®) ekuqhathanisweni kwe-split-face yamasonto ayi-12 nabantu abangu-11, kubonise ukwehla kwe-melanin (ngenxa yokuvinjelwa kwe-tyrosinase) kanye nokwehla kwe-erythema uma kuqhathaniswa nokulawulwa kwezimoto.
3.8. Isoya
3.8.1. Umlando, Ukusetshenziswa, Izimangalo
Ubhontshisi uwukudla okunamaprotheni amaningi okunezakhi ezisebenzayo ezingaba nemiphumela yokulwa nokuguga. Ikakhulukazi, ubhontshisi unama-isoflavones amaningi, angaba nemiphumela yokulwa nomdlavuza kanye nemiphumela efana ne-estrogen ngenxa yesakhiwo se-diphenolic. Le miphumela efana ne-estrogen ingase ilwe neminye yemiphumela yokunqamuka kokuya esikhathini ekugugeni kwesikhumba.
3.8.2. Ukwakheka kanye Nendlela Yokusebenza
I-soya, evela ku-Glycine maxi, iphezulu ngamaprotheni futhi iqukethe ama-isoflavone, okuhlanganisa i-glycitein, i-equol, i-daidzein, kanye ne-genistein. Lawa ma-isoflavone, abizwa nangokuthi ama-phytoestrogens, angaba nemiphumela ye-estrogenic kubantu.
3.8.3. Ubufakazi Besayensi
Amasoya aqukethe ama-isoflavone amaningi anezinzuzo ezingaba khona zokulwa nokuguga. Phakathi kweminye imiphumela yebhayoloji, i-glycitein ibonisa imiphumela ye-antioxidant. Ama-fibroblast esikhumba aphathwe nge-glycitein abonise ukwanda kokukhula nokufuduka kwamaseli, ukwanda kokwenziwa kwezinhlobo ze-collagen I no-III, kanye nokwehla kwe-MMP-1. Esifundweni esihlukile, i-soy extract yahlanganiswa ne-haematococcus extract (i-algae yamanzi ahlanzekile nayo ephezulu kuma-antioxidants), eyanciphisa ukubonakaliswa kwe-MMP-1 mRNA kanye ne-protein. I-Daidzein, i-soy isoflavone, ibonise imiphumela yokulwa nemibimbi, ukukhanya kwesikhumba, kanye nokumanzisa isikhumba. I-Diadzein ingasebenza ngokusebenzisa i-estrogen-receptor-β esikhumbeni, okuholela ekuvezweni okuthuthukisiwe kwama-antioxidants emvelo kanye nokwehla kokubonakaliswa kwezinto zokubhala eziholela ekwandeni nasekufudukeni kwe-keratinocyte. I-isoflavonoid equol etholakala ku-soy yandise i-collagen ne-elastin kanye nokwehla kwama-MMP ekukhuleni kwamaseli.
Izifundo ezengeziwe ze-murine ze-in vivo zibonisa ukwehla kokufa kwamangqamuzana okubangelwa yi-UVB kanye nokwehla kobukhulu be-epidermal emaseli ngemva kokusetshenziswa kwe-isoflavone extracts. Esifundweni sokuhlola kwabesifazane abangu-30 asebedlulile esikhathini sokuya esikhathini, ukuphathwa ngomlomo kwe-isoflavone extract izinyanga eziyisithupha kuholele ekwandeni kobukhulu be-epidermal kanye nokwanda kwe-collagen yesikhumba njengoba kulinganiswa yi-biopsies yesikhumba ezindaweni ezivikelwe yilanga. Esifundweni esihlukile, ama-isoflavone e-soy ahlanziwe avimbele ukufa kwe-keratinocyte okubangelwa yi-UV kanye nokwehla kwe-TEWL, ubukhulu be-epidermal, kanye ne-erythema esikhumbeni segundane esivezwe yi-UV.
I-RCT engaba khona ye-double-blind yabesifazane abangu-30 abaneminyaka engu-45-55 iqhathanise ukusetshenziswa kwe-estrogen kanye ne-genistein (i-soy isoflavone) esikhumbeni amasonto angu-24. Nakuba iqembu elisebenzisa i-estrogen esikhumbeni libe nemiphumela emihle kakhulu, womabili amaqembu abonise ukwanda kwe-collagen yobuso yohlobo I kanye ne-III ngokusekelwe ku-biopsies yesikhumba se-preauricular skin. Ama-oligopeptide e-soy anganciphisa i-erythema index esikhumbeni esivezwe yi-UVB (ingalo yangaphambili) futhi anciphise amaseli ashiswe yilanga kanye nama-cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers kumaseli ejwabu akhanyiswe yi-UVB ex vivo. Isivivinyo somtholampilo samasonto angu-12 esilawulwa yimoto esingenazo izimpumputhe esibandakanya abesifazane abangu-65 abanomonakalo ophakathi wobuso obonisa ukuthuthuka kombala onamabala, amabala, ukufiphala, imigqa emincane, ukuthungwa kwesikhumba, kanye nethoni yesikhumba uma kuqhathaniswa nemoto. Ndawonye, lezi zici zinganikeza imiphumela engaba khona yokulwa nokuguga, kodwa kudingeka izivivinyo zomtholampilo eziqinile ezingahleliwe ukuze kuboniswe ngokwanele inzuzo yayo.
4. Ingxoxo
Imikhiqizo yezitshalo, okuhlanganisa naleyo okuxoxwe ngayo lapha, inemiphumela engaba khona yokulwa nokuguga. Izindlela zezitshalo zokulwa nokuguga zifaka phakathi amandla okususa ama-antioxidants asetshenziswa phezulu, ukuvikelwa kwelanga okwandisiwe, ukwanda kokumuncwa kwesikhumba, kanye nemiphumela eminingi eholela ekwandeni kokwakheka kwe-collagen noma ukwehla kokuwohloka kwe-collagen. Eminye yale miphumela incane uma iqhathaniswa nemithi, kodwa lokhu akunciphisi inzuzo yayo engaba khona uma isetshenziswa kanye nezinye izindlela ezifana nokugwema ilanga, ukusetshenziswa kwezithako zokuvikela ilanga, ukumuncwa kwansuku zonke kanye nokwelashwa okufanele kochwepheshe bezokwelapha ezimweni zesikhumba ezikhona.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, izitshalo zezitshalo zinikeza ezinye izithako ezisebenzayo ngokwezinto eziphilayo ezigulini ezikhetha ukusebenzisa izithako "zemvelo" kuphela esikhumbeni sazo. Nakuba lezi zithako zitholakala emvelweni, kubalulekile ukugcizelela ezigulini ukuthi lokhu akusho ukuthi lezi zithako azinazo imiphumela emibi, empeleni, imikhiqizo eminingi yezitshalo yaziwa njengembangela engaba khona ye-allergy contact dermatitis.
Njengoba imikhiqizo yezimonyo ingadingi izinga elifanayo lobufakazi ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukusebenza kahle, kuvame ukuba nzima ukunquma ukuthi izimangalo zemiphumela yokulwa nokuguga ziyiqiniso yini. Nokho, eziningana zezitshalo ezibalwe lapha zinemiphumela yokulwa nokuguga engaba khona, kodwa kudingeka izivivinyo zemitholampilo eziqinile. Nakuba kunzima ukubikezela ukuthi lezi zitshalo zizozuzisa kanjani iziguli nabathengi ngqo esikhathini esizayo, kungenzeka kakhulu ukuthi iningi lalezi zitshalo, amafomula azihlanganisa njengezithako azoqhubeka nokwethulwa njengemikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba futhi uma egcina isilinganiso esikhulu sokuphepha, ukwamukelwa okuphezulu kwabathengi, kanye nokungabizi kakhulu, azohlala eyingxenye yemikhuba yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba evamile, enikeza izinzuzo ezincane empilweni yesikhumba. Nokho, enanini elilinganiselwe lalezi zitshalo, umthelela omkhulu kubantu jikelele ungatholakala ngokuqinisa ubufakazi besenzo sazo sebhayoloji, ngokusebenzisa ukuhlolwa kwe-biomarker okujwayelekile okuphezulu bese kuthi ngemva kwalokho kufakwe imigomo ethembisayo kakhulu ekuhlolweni kwesilingo semitholampilo.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Meyi-11-2023
