Izindaba - Ngabe i-licorice ekhipha i-Glabridin iyasebenza ngempela?

I. Isingeniso

Umkhakha Wezokunakekelwa Kwesikhumba ukhiphe amandla amhlophe amhlophe "Glabridin"(Kukhishwe kusuka ku-glycyrriza iGlabra) njengoba kudlula umholi ophindwe kabili u-Arbutin ngezikhathi eziyi-1164, ethola isihloko se-" mhlophe ngegolide "ngempela njengoba kuzwakala?

Njengoba izinkathi zonyaka zishintsha futhi imigwaqo ihlotshiswe ngemilenze ethe xaxa nezingalo ezingenalutho, "isihloko sezingxoxo phakathi kwabathanda ubuhle, ngaphandle kokuvikelwa kwelanga, ngokungenakuvikelwa ekuvikelweni kwezikhumba.

Endaweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, inqwaba yezithako zamhlophe, kufaka phakathi uvithamini C, Niacinamide, Arbutin, Hydroquinone, Tranethamic acid, Phitathylrescinol (Phenethylresies), nokuningi. Kodwa-ke, isithako esithi "Glabridin" siveze isithakazelo sabalandeli abaningi, simemezela ukunqwabelana okujulile ukuthola ukuthandwa kwayo okukhulayo. Ake singene imininingwane!

Ngalesi sihloko, sihlose ukubhekana namaphuzu asemqoka alandelayo:
(1) Uyini umsuka weGlabridin? Ngabe ihlangana kanjani ne- "Glycyrriza Glabra ekhipha"?
(2) Kungani "uGlabridin" ahlonishwa ngokuthi "ngegolide elimhlophe"?
(3) Yini izinzuzo ze- "Glabridin"?
(4) UGlabridin uzuza kanjani imiphumela yakhona emhlophe?
(5) Ngabe i-licorice ngempela inamandla njengoba ishiwo?
(6) Yimiphi imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba i-Containgobridin?

No.1 Ukwembulela umsuka we- "Glabridin"

IGlabridin, ilungu lomndeni wakwaLicorice Flavonoid, lisuselwa esitshalweni esithi "Glycyrriza Glabra." Ezweni lami, kunezinhlobo eziyisishiyagalombili eziyinhloko ze-licorice, ngezinhlobo ezintathu ezifakwe ku- "pharmacopoeia," okungukuthi i-Ural Licorice, ne-Licorice Bulge, neLicorice Glabra. I-Glycyrrizin itholakala kuphela ku-glycyrriza iGlabra, esebenza njengengxenye eyinhloko ye-isoflavone yesitshalo.

Ifomula yesakhiwo se-glycyrrizin
Ekuqaleni okutholwe yinkampani yaseJapan Maruzen futhi kukhishwe ku-Glycyrriza Glabra, i-Glycyrrizin isetshenziswa kabanzi njengezengezo emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kulo lonke elaseJapan, Korea, kanye nemikhiqizo ehlukahlukene ye-Skincare yamazwe aphesheya. Kodwa-ke, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi isithako esibhalwe emikhiqizweni ye-skincare esiyisebenzisayo kungenzeka ukuthi siyinto ecacile ukuthi "glycyrrrizin" kodwa kunalokho "glycyrriza ekhipha." Ngenkathi i- "Glycyrrizin" yinto eyodwa, "i-glycyrhriza ekhipha" ingahle ifake phakathi izingxenye ezingezona ezingakaze zibe zihlukaniswe ngokuphelele futhi zihlanziwe, zisebenza njenge-ploy yokumaketha ukugcizelela izimfanelo zomkhiqizo.

Cha.2 Kungani i-Licorice ibizwa nge- "Gold Whitener"?

I-Glycyrrizin isithako esiyinqayizivele futhi esiyinselele ukusikhipha. UGlycyrriza Glabra akatholakali kalula ngobuningi. Kuhlanganiswe nobunzima benqubo yokukhishwa, amagremu angaphansi kwe-100 angatholakala kwithoni eli-1 le-licorice stems namaqabunga. Lokhu kusweleka kudonsa inani layo, okwenza kube ngenye yezinto ezibiza kakhulu eziluhlaza emikhiqizweni ye-skincare, kuqhathaniswa negolide. Intengo ka-90% izinto ezihlanzekile ezihlanzekile zalesi sithako zikhuphuka ngaphezu kwama-200,000 yuan / kg.
Ngamangala, ngakho-ke ngavakashela iwebhusayithi ye-Aladdin ukuqinisekisa imininingwane. Ukuhlaziywa okumsulwa (purity ≥99%) I-Licorice lincorice liyanikezwa ngentengo yokuphromotha ka-780 yuan / 20mg, elilingana nama-39,000 yuan / g.
Ngasesikolweni, ngathola inhlonipho entsha ngalesi sithako esingahlanzekile. Umphumela walo mhlophe ongafani nanyathi usitholile kahle isihloko se- "Whenning Gold" noma "Whitener Golden Whitener".

Cha.3 Kuyini ukusebenza kweGlabridin?

IGlabridin iqhosha inqwaba yezinto eziphilayo. Isebenza njengesithako esisebenza kahle, esiphephile, nesinemvelo sokususwa okumhlophe nokushaywa kwe-freckle. Ngokwengeziwe, ine-antibacterial, anti-ukuvuvukala, i-antioxidant, anti-ageng, kanye nemiphumela elwa ne-ultraviolet. Ukusebenza kwayo okuhlukile kokumhlophe, ukuqhakambisa, futhi ukususwa kwe-freckle kusekelwa idatha yokuhlola, eveza ukuthi umthondo mhlophe we-glabridin udlula ama-vithanmin c ngezikhathi ezingama-16, kanye ne-agent edumile yakwa-arbutin ngamahlandla ayi-1164 adumile.

Cha.4 Yimuphi umshini ocwebezelayo weGlabridin?

Lapho isikhumba sivezwa imisebe ye-ultraviolet, okudala ukukhiqizwa kwama-radicals wamahhala, ama-melanocytes avuselelwa ukukhiqiza i-tyrosinase. Ngaphansi kwethonya lale enzyme, i-tytrosine esikhunjeni ikhiqiza i-melanin, okuholela emnyama isikhumba njengoba i-melanin ithuthwa isuka engxenyeni eyisisekelo kuya e-stratum Corneum.
Umgomo oyisisekelo wanoma yisiphi isithako esimhlophe ukungenelela kwinqubo yokwakheka kwe-melanin noma ezokuhamba. Indlela yokumhlophe kaGlabridin ngokuyinhloko ihlanganisa lezo zinto ezintathu ezilandelayo:
(1) Ukuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase
IGlabridin ikhombisa umphumela onamandla okuvinjelwe emsebenzini we-tyrosinase, ukuveza imiphumela ecacile nebalulekile. Ukufanisa kwekhompyutha kuveza ukuthi i-Glabridin ingabopha ngokuqinile esikhungweni esisebenzayo seTyrosinase ngama-hydrogen bond, ngokuvimba ngokuphumelelayo okufakiwe kokuqukethwe okuvuthiwe kwe-melanin ukukhiqizwa (i-tyrosine), ngaleyo ndlela kuvinjelwe ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin. Le ndlela, eyaziwa ngokuthi yi-Evition yokuncintisana, ifana nesenzo esinesibindi sothando.

(2) Ukucindezela isizukulwane sezinhlobo ze-oxygen ezisebenzayo (i-antioxidant)
Ukuchayeka emisebeni ye-ultraviolet kuncelisa ukukhiqizwa kwezinhlobo ze-oxygen ezisebenzayo (ama-radicals wamahhala), ezingalimaza ulwelwesi lwesikhumba lwe-phospholipid, okuholela e-erythemation. Ngakho-ke, izinhlobo ze-oxygen ezisebenzayo ziyaziwa ukuthi zifaka isandla ku-Skin Pigmentation, zigcizelela ukubaluleka kokuvikelwa kwelanga eSkincare. Ucwaningo lokuhlola lukhombisile ukuthi uGlabridin ukholisa amakhono afanayo wamahhala we-radical radical dismutase (sod), esebenza njenge-antioxidant. Lokhu kusebenza ukunciphisa izici ezinikela ngomsebenzi owengeziwe we-tyrosinase.

(3) Ukuvimbela ukuvuvukala
Ngemuva komonakalo wesikhumba kusuka emisebeni ye-ultraviolet, ukubukeka kwe-erythema kanye ne-pigmentation kuhambisana nokuvuvukala, okunye ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin nokukhulisa umjikelezo olimazayo. Izakhiwo zikaGlabridin zokulwa nokuvuvukala zakha indawo efanelekile yokuvimbela ukwakheka kwe-melanin ngezinga elithile, ngenkathi futhi lithuthukisa ukulungiswa kwesikhumba esilimele.

Cha. 5 Ngabe iGlabridin ngempela enamandla?

UGlabridin ubongelwe njengesithako esisebenzayo nezemvelo sokususwa okumhlophe nokushayisana, ukuqhosha indlela echazwe emhlophe echazwe kahle kanye nokusebenza kahle okumangalisayo. Idatha yokuhlola ikhombisa ukuthi umphumela wayo mhlophe udlula lowo "mhlophe omkhulu" u-Arbutin amahlandla angaphezu kwenkulungwane (njengoba kubikwe kwimininingwane yokuhlola).
Abaphenyi benze imodeli yokuhlola izilwane besebenzisa i-zebrafish ukuhlola umphumela wokuvinjwa kwe-glabridin ku-melanin, eveze ukuqhathanisa okubalulekile nge-kojic acid ne-berberry.
Ngaphezu kokuhlolwa kwezilwane, imiphumela yemitholampilo ibuye iqopheni nomphumela ovelele we-glabridin, ngemiphumela ebonakalayo ebonwa kungakapheli amasonto ama-4-8.
Ngenkathi ukusebenza kahle kwalesi sithako esimhlophe kubonakala, ukusetshenziswa kwalo akunakusakazeka njengezinye izithako ezimhlophe. Ngokubona kwami, isizathu esiyinhloko silele "esimweni sayo segolide" embonini - kuyabiza! Noma kunjalo, kulandela ukusetshenziswa kwemikhiqizo evamile ye-skincare, kunomkhuba okhulayo wabantu abafuna imikhiqizo equkethe lesi sithako se- "goligree".

Cha.6 Yimiphi imikhiqizo ye-skincare equkethe i-Glabridin?

Ukuzikhulula: Okulandelayo uhlu, hhayi isincomo!
IGlabridin isithako se-skincare enamandla esaziwa ngezakhiwo zayo ezikhanyisa isikhumba. Ingatholakala kwimikhiqizo ehlukahlukene ye-skincare, kufaka phakathi ama-serums, ama-exion, ama-lotions kanye nama-mask. Eminye imikhiqizo ethile engaqukatha i-Glabridin, noma kunjalo, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi ubukhona beGlabridin emikhiqizweni ye-skincare buyehluka, futhi kungakuhle ukubuyekeza ngokucophelela uhlu lwezithako zemikhiqizo ethile ukukhomba ukufakwa kwayo.
(1) I-Aleble Licorice Queen Strind Lotion
Uhlu lwezithako lubonisa ngokuvelele "Glycyrrhiza Glabra" njengesitha sesibili (amanzi alandelayo), kanye ne-glycerin, i-sodium hyaluronate, squalane, i-ceramide, nezinye izinto ezinomswakama.
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Izithako ezibalulekile zifaka i-Glycyrrriza Glabra Extract, i-Hydrolyzed Algae Extract, Arbutin, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baizalensis Root Extract, nokuningi.
(3) I-KOKOSKIN SCONE CLOCK EBRECE SEARM
Kufakwe ama-5% nicotinamide, 377, kanye neGlabridin njengezakhi zayo eziphambili.
(4) I-Licorice Face Mask (Brands Ehlukahlukene)
Lesi sigaba semikhiqizo siyahlukahluka, ngamanye aqukethe amanani amancane futhi athengiswa njengekhambi "Glabragan."
(5) Uchungechunge lwe-Guyu licorice

No.7 Soul Ukuhlukunyezwa

(1) Ingabe i-Glabridin emikhiqizweni ye-skincare ikhishwe ngempela kuLiviceice?
Umbuzo wokuthi ngabe uGlabridin emikhiqizweni ye-skincare ukhishwe ngempela ku-licorice evumelekile. Isakhiwo samakhemikhali seLicorice Extract, ikakhulukazi i-Glabridin, sihlukile, futhi inqubo yokukhipha ingabizi. Lokhu kuphakamisa umbuzo wokuthi ngabe kungasebenza ngokwengeziwe ukucabanga ukufana kwamakhemikhali njengendlela ehlukile yokuthola i-Glabridin. Ngenkathi ezinye zezinhlanganisela, ezinjenge-artemisinin, zingatholakala ngokubumbana okuphelele, kungokunokwenzeka uGlabridin. Kodwa-ke, imiphumela yezindleko zokuhlanganiswa kwamakhemikhali uma kuqhathaniswa nokukhishwa kufanele kubhekwe. Ngokwengeziwe, kungahle kube nokukhathazeka ngokusetshenziswa ngenhloso yelebula "glycyrrhiza glabra extract" Ilebula ku-Skincare Product Interedent Uhlu ukudala isikhalo sokukhangisa esingokwemvelo. Kubalulekile ukuhlanganisa imisuka kanye nezindlela zokukhiqiza ze-skincare izithako ukuqinisekisa ukucaca nobuqiniso.

(2) Ngingakwazi ukusebenzisa i-licorice ebumsulwa ephakeme ngqo ebusweni bami bebala elimhlophe leqhwa?
Impendulo ingumuntu ongenayo! Ngenkathi umphumela wokumhlophe we-glabridin uyancomeka, izakhiwo zalo zikhawulela uhlelo lwayo oluqondile. I-Glycyrrhizin icishe ibe khona ngaphakathi emanzini, futhi amandla ayo okungena ekuvinjelweni kwesikhumba abuthakathaka. Ukuyifaka kwimikhiqizo ye-skincare idinga izinqubo ezinzima zokukhiqiza nezinqubo zokulungiselela. Ngaphandle kokwakheka okufanele, kungaba yinselele ukufeza umphumela oyifunayo. Kodwa-ke, ucwaningo lwesayensi luholele ekuthuthukisweni kwamalungiselelo aphezulu ngendlela yama-liposomes, athuthukise ukumuncwa kanye nokusetshenziswa kweGlabridin ngesikhumba.

Izinkomba:
[1] UPigmentation: Dyschromia [M]. UThierry Passon noJean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / Spectrochica Acta Part A: ama-molecular kanye ne-biomolecular spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111-117