Izindaba - Ingabe I-Licorice Extract Glabridin Isebenza Ngempela?

I. Isingeniso

Imboni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ibabaze ikhono lokwenza mhlophe "I-Glabridin" (ithathwe ku-Glycyrrhiza glabra) njengoba idlula umholi omhlophe u-arbutin izikhathi ezimangalisayo ezingu-1164, ithola isihloko esithi "igolide elimhlophe"! Kodwa ingabe imangalisa ngempela njengoba izwakala? Iyithola kanjani imiphumela emangalisa kangaka?

Njengoba izinkathi zonyaka zishintsha futhi imigwaqo ihlotshiswe “ngemilenze engenalutho nezingalo ezingenalutho,” isihloko esikhuluma phakathi kwabathandi bobuhle, ngaphandle kokuvikelwa elangeni, siphenduka nakanjani isikhumba sibe mhlophe.

Emkhakheni wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, inqwaba yezithako ezimhlophe zigcwele, okuhlanganisa uvithamini C, i-niacinamide, i-arbutin, i-hydroquinone, i-kojic acid, i-tranexamic acid, i-glutathione, i-ferulic acid, i-phenethylresorcinol (377), nokunye. Kodwa-ke, isithako esithi "glabridin" sivuse isithakazelo sabalandeli abaningi, okwenza ukuhlola okujulile kwembule ukuthandwa kwayo okukhulayo. Ake singene emininingwaneni!

Ngalesi sihloko, sihlose ukubhekana namaphuzu abalulekile alandelayo:
(1) Uyini umsuka kaGlabridin? Ihlobana kanjani “ne-Glycyrrhiza glabra extract”?
(2) Kungani elithi “Glabridin” lihlonishwa “njengegolide elenza libe mhlophe”?
(3) Yiziphi izinzuzo ze "Glabridin"?
(4) I-Glabridin ifinyelela kanjani imiphumela yayo yokuba mhlophe?
(5) Ingabe i-licorice inamandla njengoba kushiwo?
(6) Imiphi imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba equkethe iGlabridin?

No.1 Ukwembula Umsuka we-"Glabridin"

I-Glabridin, ilungu lomndeni we-licorice flavonoid, itholakala esitshalweni esithi "Glycyrrhiza glabra." Ezweni lakithi, kunezinhlobo eziyisishiyagalombili eziyinhloko ze-licorice, ezinezinhlobo ezintathu ezifakwe ku-“Pharmacopoeia,” okuyi-Ural licorice, i-licorice bulge, ne-licorice glabra. I-Glycyrrhizin itholakala kuphela ku-Glycyrrhiza glabra, esebenza njengengxenye eyinhloko ye-isoflavone yesitshalo.

Ifomula yesakhiwo ye-glycyrrhizin
I-glycyrrhizin eyatholwa ekuqaleni inkampani yase-Japan i-MARUZEN futhi yakhishwa ku-Glycyrrhiza glabra, i-glycyrrhizin isetshenziswa kabanzi njengesengezo emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba emhlophe kulo lonke elase-Japan, e-Korea, kanye nemikhiqizo ehlukahlukene ye-skincare yamazwe ngamazwe. Kodwa-ke, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi isithako esisohlwini lwemikhiqizo ye-skincare esiyisebenzisayo kungenzeka ukuthi ingabi “i-glycyrrhizin” kodwa kunalokho “i-Glycyrrhiza extract.” Nakuba i-“Glycyrrhizin” iwuketshezi olulodwa, i-“Glycyrrhiza extract” ingase ihlanganise izingxenye ezengeziwe ezingahlukaniswanga zodwa ngokuphelele futhi zicwengisiswe, okungenzeka zisebenze njengesu lokumaketha ukuze kugcizelelwe izici “zemvelo” zomkhiqizo.

No.2 Kungani i-licorice ibizwa nge-“Gold Whitener”?

I-Glycyrrhizin iyisithako esingandile nesiyinselele ukuyikhipha. I-Glycyrrhiza glabra ayitholakali kalula ngobuningi. Kuhlanganiswe nezinkimbinkimbi zenqubo yokukhipha, ngaphansi kwamagremu ayi-100 angatholakala ku-1 ton yeziqu ezintsha ze-licorice namaqabunga. Lokhu kushoda kushayela inani layo, okwenza kube enye yezinto zokusetshenziswa ezibiza kakhulu emikhiqizweni ye-skincare, eqhathaniswa negolide. Intengo yezinto ezingaphekiwe ezingama-90% zalesi sithako inyukela ngaphezu kuka-200,000 yuan/kg.
Ngimangele, ngakho ngavakashela iwebhusayithi ye-Aladdin ukuze ngiqinisekise imininingwane. I-licorice ehlanzekile ngokwezibalo (ukuhlanzeka ≥99%) inikezwa ngentengo yokuphromotha engu-780 yuan/20mg, okulingana no-39,000 yuan/g.
Ngokuphazima kweso, ngathola inhlonipho entsha ngalesi sithako esingenabugovu. Umthelela wayo wokwenza mhlophe ongenakuqhathaniswa uyithole ngokufanelekile isihloko esithi "igolide elimhlophe" noma "I-Golden Whitener".

No.3 Uyini Umsebenzi We-Glabridin?

I-Glabridin inenqwaba yezinto eziphilayo. Isebenza njengesithako esisebenzayo, esiphephile, futhi esinobungani bemvelo sokwenza kube mhlophe nokususa amabala. Ukwengeza, ine-antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, ne-anti-ultraviolet imiphumela. Ukusebenza kwayo okukhethekile ekususeni mhlophe, ekukhanyeni nasekususeni amabala kusekelwa idatha yokuhlola, eveza ukuthi umphumela wokuba mhlophe we-Glabridin udlula lowo kavithamini C izikhathi ezingaphezu kuka-230, i-hydroquinone izikhathi ezingu-16, kanye ne-ejenti emhlophe edumile i-arbutin ngo-1164 ngendlela emangalisayo. izikhathi.

No.4 Iyini indlela yokwenza mhlophe ye-glabridin?

Lapho isikhumba sivezwa emisebeni ye-ultraviolet, okubangela ukukhiqizwa kwama-radicals mahhala, ama-melanocyte ayakhuthazwa ukukhiqiza i-tyrosinase. Ngaphansi kwethonya lale enzyme, i-tyrosine esikhumbeni ikhiqiza i-melanin, okuholela esikhumbeni sibe mnyama njengoba i-melanin ithuthwa isuka kungqimba ye-basal iye ku-stratum corneum.
Umgomo oyisisekelo wanoma yisiphi isithako esimhlophe ukungenelela ohlelweni lokwakheka noma ukuthutha i-melanin. Indlela yokwenza mhlophe ye-Glabridin ngokuyinhloko ihlanganisa izici ezintathu ezilandelayo:
(1) Ukuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase
I-Glabridin ikhombisa umphumela onamandla wokuvimbela emsebenzini we-tyrosinase, oveza imiphumela ecacile nebalulekile. Ukulingiswa kwekhompyutha kuveza ukuthi i-glabridin ingabophezela ngokuqinile esikhungweni esisebenzayo se-tyrosinase ngamabhondi e-hydrogen, ivimbele ngempumelelo ukungena kwempahla eluhlaza yokukhiqizwa kwe-melanin (tyrosine), ngaleyo ndlela ivimbe ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin. Le ndlela, eyaziwa ngokuthi ukuvimbela ukuncintisana, ifana nesenzo sothando esinesibindi.

(2) Ukucindezela ukukhiqizwa kwezinhlobo ze-oxygen esebenzayo (i-antioxidant)
Ukuchayeka emisebeni ye-ultraviolet kubangela ukukhiqizwa kwezinhlobo ze-oksijini ezisebenzayo (ama-radicals mahhala), ezingalimaza ulwelwesi lwesikhumba lwe-phospholipid, okuholela eerythema kanye ne-pigmentation. Ngakho-ke, izinhlobo ze-oxygen esebenzayo ziyaziwa ukuthi zinomthelela esikhumbeni sombala, ogcizelela ukubaluleka kokuvikela ilanga ekunakekeleni isikhumba. Ucwaningo lokuhlola luye lwabonisa ukuthi i-glabridin ibonisa amandla afanayo amahhala okulahla i-superoxide dismutase (SOD), esebenza njenge-antioxidant. Lokhu kusebenza ukunciphisa izici ezinomthelela ekwandeni komsebenzi we-tyrosinase.

(3) Ukuvimbela ukuvuvukala
Ukulandela ukulimala kwesikhumba emisebeni ye-ultraviolet, ukubonakala kwe-erythema ne-pigmentation kuhambisana nokuvuvukala, kuqhubekisela phambili ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin futhi kuqhubekisele phambili umjikelezo olimazayo. Izakhiwo zokulwa nokuvuvukala ze-Glabridin zenza indawo ekahle yokuvimbela ukwakheka kwe-melanin ngezinga elithile, kuyilapho futhi ikhuthaza ukulungiswa kwesikhumba esonakele.

No. 5 Ingabe UGlabridin Unamandla Kanjalo Ngempela?

I-Glabridin iye yanconywa njengesithako esisebenzayo nesinobungani bemvelo sokwenza mhlophe kanye nokususwa kwamafreckle, iziqhayisa ngendlela echazwe kahle yokwenza mhlophe nokusebenza ngendlela emangalisayo. Idatha yokuhlola ibonisa ukuthi umphumela wayo wokuba mhlophe udlula lowo we-arbutin “ye-whitening giant” izikhathi ezingaphezu kwenkulungwane (njengoba kubikwe kudatha yokuhlola).
Abacwaningi benze imodeli yokuhlola yezilwane besebenzisa i-zebrafish ukuze bahlole umphumela ovimbelayo we-glabridin ku-melanin, okuveza ukuqhathanisa okubalulekile ne-kojic acid ne-bearberry.
Ngaphezu kokuhlolwa kwezilwane, imiphumela yomtholampilo iphinde iqokomise umphumela ogqamile wokuba mhlophe we-glabridin, onemiphumela ebonakalayo ebonwe phakathi kwamaviki angu-4-8.
Nakuba ukusebenza kwalesi sithako esimhlophe kubonakala, ukusetshenziswa kwaso akusabalele njengezinye izithako ezibenza babe mhlophe. Ngokubona kwami, isizathu esiyinhloko silele “esimeni sayo segolide” embonini—kuyabiza! Yize kunjalo, kulandela ukusetshenziswa kwemikhiqizo ejwayeleke kakhulu yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, kunomkhuba okhulayo wabantu abafuna imikhiqizo equkethe lesi sithako “segolide”.

No.6 Yimiphi Imikhiqizo Yesikhumba Equkethe I-Glabridin?

Umusho wokuzihlangula: Okulandelayo uhlu, hhayi isincomo!
I-Glabridin iyisithako esinamandla sokunakekela isikhumba esaziwa ngezici zayo ezikhanyisa isikhumba. Ingatholakala emikhiqizweni ehlukahlukene ye-skincare, kufaka phakathi ama-serum, ama-essence, ama-lotions, namamaski. Eminye imikhiqizo ethile engase iqukethe i-Glabridin, nokho, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi ukuba khona kwe-Glabridin emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kungase kuhluke, futhi kuyatuseka ukuthi ubuyekeze ngokucophelela uhlu lwezithako zemikhiqizo ethile ukuze ubone ukufakwa kwayo.
(1) I-Aleble Licorice Queen Body Lotion
Uhlu lwesithako lubonisa ngokugqamile i-“Glycyrrhiza glabra” njengesithako sesibili (amanzi alandelayo), kanye ne-glycerin, i-sodium hyaluronate, i-squalane, i-ceramide, nezinye izakhi zokuthambisa.
(2) Makeup Wezingane Light Fruit Licorice Repair Essence Water
Izithako eziyinhloko zifaka i-Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, i-hydrolyzed algae extract, i-arbutin, i-Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, i-Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, nokuningi.
(3) I-Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Ifaka u-5% we-nicotinamide, 377, ne-glabridin njengezingxenye zayo eziyinhloko.
(4) I-Licorice Facial Mask (Izinhlobo Ezihlukahlukene)
Lesi sigaba semikhiqizo siyahlukahluka, kanti eminye iqukethe amanani amancane futhi imakethwa njenge-herbal "glabragan."
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

No.7 Ukuhlushwa Komphefumulo

(1) Ingabe i-Glabridin emikhiqizweni ye-skincare ikhishwe ngempela ku-licorice?
Umbuzo wokuthi ingabe i-Glabridin emikhiqizweni ye-skincare ikhishwe ngempela ku-licorice ilungile. Isakhiwo samakhemikhali se-licorice ekhishwe, ikakhulukazi i-glabridin, ihlukile, futhi inqubo yokukhipha ingabiza. Lokhu kuphakamisa umbuzo wokuthi kungase kube okusebenzayo yini ukucabangela ukuhlanganiswa kwamakhemikhali njengenye indlela yokuthola i-glabridin. Nakuba ezinye izinhlanganisela, ezifana ne-artemisinin, zingatholakala ngokuhlanganisa okuphelele, ngokombono kuyenzeka ukuhlanganisa i-glabridin futhi. Kodwa-ke, imiphumela yezindleko zokuhlanganiswa kwamakhemikhali uma kuqhathaniswa nokukhipha kufanele kucatshangelwe. Ukwengeza, kungase kube nokukhathazeka mayelana nokusetshenziswa kwamabomu kwelebula ethi “Glycyrrhiza glabra extract” ohlwini lwezithako zomkhiqizo we-skincare ukuze kwakhiwe isikhalo sokumaketha sesithako semvelo. Kubalulekile ukuhlolisisa umsuka kanye nezindlela zokukhiqiza zezithako ze-skincare ukuqinisekisa ukuthi izinto zisobala nobuqiniso.

(2) Ngingakwazi ukufaka i-licorice ehlanzekile ebusweni ngokuqondile ukuze ngithole ibala elimhlophe qhwa?
Impendulo ingucha omkhulu! Nakuba umphumela wokuba mhlophe we-glabridin utuseka, izakhiwo zayo zikhawulela ukusetshenziswa kwayo okuqondile. I-Glycyrrhizin icishe ingancibiliki emanzini, futhi ikhono layo lokungena emgodleni wesikhumba libuthakathaka. Ukuyihlanganisa emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kudinga izinqubo eziqinile zokukhiqiza kanye nokulungiselela. Ngaphandle kokwakheka okufanele, kungaba inselele ukufeza umphumela ofisa ukuwufinyelela. Kodwa-ke, ucwaningo lwesayensi luye lwaholela ekwakhiweni kwamalungiselelo e-topical ngendlela yama-liposomes, okuthuthukisa ukumuncwa kanye nokusetshenziswa kwe-glabridin esikhumbeni.

izinkomba:
[1] Ukushintsha umbala: i-dychromia[M]. Thierry Passeron noJean-Paul Ortonne, ngo-2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / I-Spectrochimica Acta Ingxenye A: I-Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111–117