Izindaba - Ingabe i-Licorice Extract Glabridin Iyasebenza Ngempela?

I. Isingeniso

Imboni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba income ikhono lokwenza mhlophe "I-Glabridin" (kuthathwe ku-Glycyrrhiza glabra) njengoba idlula umholi we-arbutin omhlophe ngezikhathi ezingu-1164 ezimangalisayo, ithola isihloko esithi "igolide elimhlophe"! Kodwa ingabe limangalisa ngempela njengoba lizwakala? Lifinyelela kanjani imiphumela engavamile kangaka?

Njengoba izinkathi zonyaka zishintsha futhi imigwaqo ihlotshiswe “ngemilenze engenalutho nezingalo ezingenalutho,” isihloko sengxoxo phakathi kwabathandi bobuhle, ngaphandle kokuvikelwa elangeni, ngokungenakugwenywa siphendukela ekwenzeni isikhumba sibe mhlophe.

Emkhakheni wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, kunezithako eziningi zokwenza mhlophe, okuhlanganisa i-vitamin C, i-niacinamide, i-arbutin, i-hydroquinone, i-kojic acid, i-tranexamic acid, i-glutathione, i-ferulic acid, i-phenethylresorcinol (377), nokuningi. Kodwa-ke, isithako esithi “glabridin” sivuse isithakazelo sabalandeli abaningi, okuholele ekuhlolweni okujulile ukuze kwembulwe ukuthandwa kwaso okukhula. Ake sihlole imininingwane!

Ngalesi sihloko, sihlose ukubhekana namaphuzu alandelayo abalulekile:
(1) Uyini umsuka weGlabridin? Ihlobene kanjani ne-"Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) Kungani i-"Glabridin" ihlonishwa njenge-"whitening gold"?
(3) Yiziphi izinzuzo ze-"Glabridin"?
(4) I-Glabridin ifinyelela kanjani emiphumeleni yayo yokwenza mhlophe?
(5) Ingabe i-licorice inamandla ngempela njengoba kushiwo?
(6) Yimiphi imikhiqizo yokunakekela isikhumba equkethe iGlabridin?

No.1 Ukwembula Imvelaphi Ka-"Glabridin"

I-Glabridin, ilungu lomndeni we-licorice flavonoid, itholakala esitshalweni esithi “Glycyrrhiza glabra.” Ezweni lakithi, kunezinhlobo eziyisishiyagalombili eziyinhloko ze-licorice, ezinezinhlobo ezintathu ezifakiwe ku-“Pharmacopoeia,” okuyi-Ural licorice, i-licorice bulge, kanye ne-licorice glabra. I-Glycyrrhizin itholakala kuphela ku-Glycyrrhiza glabra, esebenza njengengxenye eyinhloko ye-isoflavone yesitshalo.

Ifomula yesakhiwo se-glycyrrhizin
Ekuqaleni, i-glycyrrhizin, eyatholwa yinkampani yaseJapan i-MARUZEN futhi yakhishwa ku-Glycyrrhiza glabra, isetshenziswa kabanzi njengesithako emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ekhanyisa isikhumba kulo lonke elaseJapane, eKorea, kanye nemikhiqizo eyahlukahlukene yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba yamazwe ngamazwe. Kodwa-ke, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi isithako esibalwe emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba esiyisebenzisayo kungenzeka kungabi yi-"glycyrrhizin" ngokusobala kodwa "yi-Glycyrrhiza extract." Nakuba i-"Glycyrrhizin" iyisithako esisodwa, i-"Glycyrrhiza extract" ingase ihlanganise ezinye izingxenye ezingakahlukaniswa futhi zihlanzwe ngokuphelele, okungenzeka isebenze njengecebo lokumaketha lokugcizelela izimfanelo "zemvelo" zomkhiqizo.

Cha.2 Kungani i-licorice ibizwa ngokuthi “i-Gold Whitener”?

I-Glycyrrhizin iyisithako esingavamile nesiyinselele ukukhishwa. I-Glycyrrhiza glabra ayitholakali kalula ngobuningi. Uma ihlanganiswe nobunzima benqubo yokukhipha, kungatholakala ngaphansi kwamagremu ayi-100 kusuka ku-1 ton yeziqu namaqabunga amasha e-licorice. Lokhu kushoda kwenza inani layo libe ngelinye lezinto zokusetshenziswa ezibiza kakhulu emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, efana negolide. Intengo yezinto zokusetshenziswa ezihlanzekile ezingama-90% zalesi sithako ikhuphukela ngaphezu kwama-yuan angu-200,000/kg.
Ngamangala, ngakho ngavakashela iwebhusayithi ye-Aladdin ukuze ngiqinisekise imininingwane. I-licorice ehlanzekile ngokwezibalo (ubumsulwa ≥99%) inikezwa ngentengo yokukhushulwa engu-780 yuan/20mg, elingana no-39,000 yuan/g.
Ngokuphazima kweso, ngathola inhlonipho entsha ngalesi sithako esingenasizotha. Umphumela waso wokwenza mhlophe ngendlela engenakuqhathaniswa uye wasenza sathola igama elithi "igolide elimhlophe" noma "iGolden Whitener".

Cha. 3 Uyini Umsebenzi we-Glabridin?

I-Glabridin inezakhiwo eziningi zemvelo. Isebenza njengesithako esisebenzayo, esiphephile, nesinobungani nemvelo sokususa amabala amhlophe kanye namabala amhlophe. Ngaphezu kwalokho, inemiphumela yokulwa namagciwane, yokulwa nokuvuvukala, i-antioxidant, yokulwa nokuguga, kanye ne-anti-ultraviolet. Ukusebenza kwayo okumangalisayo ekususeni amabala amhlophe, ukukhanyisa, kanye nokususa amabala amhlophe kusekelwa idatha yokuhlola, eveza ukuthi umphumela wokwenza amabala amhlophe we-Glabridin udlula lowo we-vitamin C izikhathi ezingaphezu kuka-230, i-hydroquinone izikhathi ezingu-16, kanye ne-ejenti yokwenza amabala amhlophe eyaziwayo i-arbutin izikhathi ezingu-1164 ezimangalisayo.

Cha.4 Iyini indlela yokwenza mhlophe i-glabridin?

Uma isikhumba sichayeka emisebeni ye-ultraviolet, okubangela ukukhiqizwa kwama-free radicals, ama-melanocyte ayakhuthazwa ukukhiqiza i-tyrosinase. Ngaphansi kwethonya lale enzyme, i-tyrosine esikhumbeni ikhiqiza i-melanin, okuholela ekubeni mnyama kwesikhumba njengoba i-melanin ithuthwa isuka kungqimba oluyisisekelo iye ku-stratum corneum.
Isimiso esiyisisekelo sanoma yisiphi isithako sokwenza mhlophe ukungenelela enqubweni yokwakheka noma ukuthuthwa kwe-melanin. Indlela yokwenza mhlophe kaGlabridin ihlanganisa ngokuyinhloko izici ezintathu ezilandelayo:
(1) Ukuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase
I-Glabridin ikhombisa umphumela onamandla wokuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, iveza imiphumela ecacile nebalulekile. Ukulingisa kwekhompyutha kwembula ukuthi i-glabridin ingabopha ngokuqinile enkabeni esebenzayo ye-tyrosinase ngezibopho ze-hydrogen, ivimbele ngempumelelo ukungena kwezinto zokusetshenziswa zokukhiqizwa kwe-melanin (tyrosine), ngaleyo ndlela ivimbele ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin. Le ndlela, eyaziwa ngokuthi ukuvimbela ukuncintisana, ifana nesenzo sothando esinesibindi.

(2) Ukuvimbela ukukhiqizwa kwezinhlobo ze-oxygen ezisabelayo (i-antioxidant)
Ukuchayeka emisebeni ye-ultraviolet kubangela ukukhiqizwa kwezinhlobo ze-oxygen ezisabelayo (ama-free radicals), ezingalimaza ulwelwesi lwe-phospholipid yesikhumba, okuholela ekuqhekekeni kwesikhumba kanye nokwakheka kwemibala. Ngakho-ke, izinhlobo ze-oxygen ezisabelayo zaziwa ngokufaka isandla ekuguqulweni kwemibala yesikhumba, okugcizelela ukubaluleka kokuvikelwa kwelanga ekunakekelweni kwesikhumba. Izifundo zokuhlola zibonise ukuthi i-glabridin ibonisa amakhono afanayo okususa ama-free radical njenge-superoxide dismutase (SOD), esebenza njenge-antioxidant. Lokhu kusebenza ekunciphiseni izici ezifaka isandla ekwandeni komsebenzi we-tyrosinase.

(3) Ukuvimbela ukuvuvukala
Ngemva kokulimala kwesikhumba okuvela emisebeni ye-ultraviolet, ukubonakala kwe-erythema kanye nombala kuhambisana nokuvuvukala, okwandisa ukukhiqizwa kwe-melanin futhi kuqhubeke nomjikelezo oyingozi. Izakhiwo ze-Glabridin zokulwa nokuvuvukala zakha indawo efanelekile yokuvimbela ukwakheka kwe-melanin ngezinga elithile, kuyilapho futhi zikhuthaza ukulungiswa kwesikhumba esonakele.

Cha. 5 Ingabe iGlabridin Inamandla Ngempela?

I-Glabridin ibilokhu idunyiswa njengesithako esisebenzayo nesinobungani nemvelo sokususa amabala amhlophe, inendlela yokwenza mhlophe echazwe kahle kanye nokusebenza kahle okumangalisayo. Idatha yokuhlola ikhombisa ukuthi umphumela wayo wokwenza mhlophe udlula owe-arbutin “omkhulu wokwenza mhlophe” izikhathi ezingaphezu kwenkulungwane (njengoba kubikiwe kudatha yokuhlola).
Abacwaningi benze imodeli yokuhlola yezilwane besebenzisa i-zebrafish ukuhlola umphumela wokuvimbela we-glabridin ku-melanin, beveza ukuqhathaniswa okuphawulekayo ne-kojic acid kanye ne-bearberry.
Ngaphezu kokuhlolwa kwezilwane, imiphumela yezokwelapha iphinde igcizelele umphumela omuhle kakhulu wokwenza mhlophe we-glabridin, kanye nemiphumela ebonakalayo ebonwe zingakapheli amasonto angu-4-8.
Nakuba ukusebenza kahle kwalesi sithako sokwenza mhlophe kusobala, ukusetshenziswa kwaso akusabalele njengezinye izithako zokwenza mhlophe. Ngombono wami, isizathu esiyinhloko sisekubeni "nesimo segolide" embonini—siyabiza! Noma kunjalo, ngemuva kokusetshenziswa kwemikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba evamile, kunomkhuba okhulayo wabantu abafuna imikhiqizo equkethe lesi sithako "esigolide".

Cha.6 Yimiphi Imikhiqizo Yokunakekela Isikhumba Equkethe i-Glabridin?

Isixwayiso: Okulandelayo uhlu, hhayi isincomo!
I-Glabridin iyisithako esinamandla sokunakekelwa kwesikhumba esaziwa ngezakhiwo zayo zokukhanyisa isikhumba. Ingatholakala emikhiqizweni ehlukahlukene yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, okuhlanganisa ama-serum, ama-essence, ama-lotion, kanye nama-masks. Nokho, eminye imikhiqizo ethile engase iqukathe i-Glabridin, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi ukuba khona kwe-Glabridin emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kungahluka, futhi kuyalulekwa ukuthi ubuyekeze ngokucophelela uhlu lwezithako zemikhiqizo ethile ukuze ubone ukuthi ifakiwe.
(1) I-Aleble Licorice Queen Body Lotion
Uhlu lwezithako luveza ngokugqamile i-“Glycyrrhiza glabra” njengesithako sesibili (esilandela amanzi), kanye ne-glycerin, i-sodium hyaluronate, i-squalane, i-ceramide, nezinye izingxenye ezithambisa umswakama.
(2) Ukulungiswa Kwe-Essence Water Yezimonyo Zezingane Ezikhanyayo Zezithelo
Izithako ezibalulekile zifaka phakathi i-Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, i-hydrolyzed algae extract, i-arbutin, i-Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, i-Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, nokuningi.
(3) I-Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Iqukethe i-5% nicotinamide, 377, kanye ne-glabridin njengezakhi zayo eziyinhloko.
(4) Imaski Yobuso Ye-Licorice (Imikhiqizo Ehlukahlukene)
Lolu hlobo lwemikhiqizo luyahlukahluka, kanti eminye inezinto ezincane kakhulu futhi ithengiswa njenge-“glabragan” yezitshalo.
(5) Uchungechunge lwe-Guyu Licorice

No. 7 Ukuhlushwa Komphefumulo

(1) Ingabe i-Glabridin emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ikhishwe ngempela ku-licorice?
Umbuzo wokuthi i-Glabridin emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ikhishwe ngempela ku-licorice uyiqiniso. Isakhiwo samakhemikhali se-licorice extract, ikakhulukazi i-glabridin, sihlukile, futhi inqubo yokukhipha ingabiza kakhulu. Lokhu kuphakamisa umbuzo wokuthi kungaba ngcono yini ukucabangela ukwakheka kwamakhemikhali njengendlela ehlukile yokuthola i-glabridin. Ngenkathi amanye ama-compound, njenge-artemisinin, angatholakala ngokuhlanganiswa okuphelele, kungenzeka ngokwemfundiso ukuhlanganisa i-glabridin. Kodwa-ke, imiphumela yezindleko zokuhlanganiswa kwamakhemikhali uma kuqhathaniswa nokukhishwa kufanele icatshangelwe. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kungase kube nokukhathazeka mayelana nokusetshenziswa ngamabomu kwelebula elithi “Glycyrrhiza glabra extract” ohlwini lwezithako zomkhiqizo wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ukudala ukukhanga kokumaketha kwezithako zemvelo. Kubalulekile ukuhlola imvelaphi nezindlela zokukhiqiza zezithako zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ukuqinisekisa ukucaca kanye nobuqiniso.

(2) Ngingafaka i-licorice ehlanzekile kakhulu ebusweni bami ukuze ngibe nobuso obumhlophe njengeqhwa?
Impendulo ingucha ocacile! Nakuba umphumela wokuba mhlophe kwe-glabridin uncomeka, izakhiwo zayo zikhawulela ukusetshenziswa kwayo ngqo. I-Glycyrrhizin cishe ayincibiliki emanzini, futhi ikhono layo lokungena esikhumbeni libuthakathaka. Ukuyifaka emikhiqizweni yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kudinga izinqubo zokukhiqiza nokulungiselela eziqinile. Ngaphandle kokwakheka okufanele, kungaba nzima ukufeza umphumela ofiselekayo. Kodwa-ke, ucwaningo lwesayensi luholele ekuthuthukisweni kwamalungiselelo angaphandle ngesimo sama-liposome, okuthuthukisa ukumuncwa nokusetshenziswa kwe-glabridin esikhumbeni.

izinkomba:
[1] Ukushintsha umbala: i-dychromia[M]. Thierry Passeron noJean-Paul Ortonne, ngo-2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / Spectrochimica Acta Ingxenye A: I-Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111–117